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2/22/05 |
Asian and Latino
cuisines have virtually taken over Atlanta. Just try
to locate a strip center that doesn’t lay home to a
Thai, Chinese or Mexican restaurant.
Now, even Sushi has been ever so quietly creeping its way into
most neighborhoods, though much of it less than desirable. Our
sushi scene here in Atlanta leaves much to be desired. Outside
of Soto, Taka and a small handful of notables – you’re
risking your life.
Zuma, one of the few notables, opened its doors several months
ago to a rapidly gentrifying Inman Park neighborhood, but it
was only recently that I made a first then subsequent visits.
Admittedly, after reading mixed reviews, I wasn’t certain
what to expect as far as Zuma’s sushi was concerned. However,
I knew I’d be dining in a swank room of pitch-black walls
and vivid red interspersions. And I heard all about the miniature
plasmas TV screens, one per table, airing Japanese movies without
sound.
But I still didn’t know what to expect from the sushi, and
how could I? One review from our AC forums (Foodsnob) came in
positive from start to finish, despite his lashing of nearly
every single sushi eating American in the city. But then King
of The Pig People, one of our most active and trusted members,
didn’t think much of it with only mediocre feedback. Then,
shortly thereafter, Cliff Bostock of Creative Loafing touted
Zuma’s “serious sushi” offerings and trendy digs
in his weekly dining column. But the very same day I received
an email from a trusty palate regarding his under whelming Zuma
experience.
So, I stripped myself naked of any preconceived notions and was
pleasantly surprised to unveil much better than average sushi.
And for those upcoming warm spring nights that make us lean towards
the all sushi experience – I actually prefer Zuma to MF,
where generous doses of nitroglycerin should be mandatory with
the check.
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Price Range: $$$$
Address and Telephone: 701 Highland Ave, Inman
Park Tel: 404-522-2872
Key Notes:
*Service is a little slow
*Nice sake and wine selection
*Due to the poor design of the sushi bar patrons, unfortunately,
can't view the sushi chef in action
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Don’t get the wrong impression; Zuma’s prices won’t
ever be confused with blue light specials, but they're not quite
as heart stopping as MF Sushi’s. And I believe their sushi
is worthy of the higher price tag, whereas, MF has been extremely
disappointing lately with their half-assed efforts and chic thousand
dollar suits. Puhleaze!
Zuma is geared towards those who’d rather splurge on high
caliber raw fish carvings such as buttery baby yellowtail (Kapmachi)
and fatty tuna belly (Otoro), which liquefies the instant it’s
placed in your mouth. And it's designed for those who understand
the sweet melt in your mouth raw goodness of Uni but won’t
pout if they never encounter another mundane California Roll,
ever again.
So please forgive me for sounding so crass when I tell
you how heartbreaking it is to witness most, if not all, of their
customers shamelessly stuffing their gullets with one flaming
volcano roll after another. Totally bypassing any and all forms
of sashimi and nigiri for those items that have been rolled,
tempura battered or blistered with a blowtorch.
With all this taking place around us, I was thoroughly amazed
we had so much trouble persuading them to prepare Kampachi Kama
(grilled young yellowtail collar) for us. Melanie is hopelessly
addicted and can’t seem to bring herself to exit a sushi
bar without getting her fix.
I can imagine worse addictions, I guess.
email: tom@atlantacuisine.com |
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