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10/25/06 by Tom Maicon |
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Sushi falls into one of three categories: destination grade, neighborhood grade and bottom grade. Newly opened Wasabi, located in the hip Castleberry Hill loft district, features lower-end neighborhood grade sushi.
Very little emphasis is placed on sashimi because the trendy neighborhood clientele supposedly orders mostly sushi rolls. But maybe patrons only request rolls because the mushy — as if repeatedly thawed and refrozen — texture of the tuna, along with its fishy taste, desperately needs a disguise. Even hamachi, firm and buttery by nature, is uninspired and limp and probably more digestible if distracted by spicy mayo, bits of cucumber, and crunchy tempura. I am a self-proclaimed sushi snob, and not easily persuaded into ordering rolls with corny names like Candy Box and Wabi Sabi. Besides, eating rolls at a sushi bar is like having sex with your clothes on. Eating sushi should be an act of intimacy and I want my tongue to experience every last sensuous sliver and seductively smooth surface without distraction. When experiencing no luck with the more sexually charged sashimi and nigiri offerings — and rolls obviously the safer bet — I head to appetizers. Tako sunonomo, tender slivers of octopus in a small bowl with chopped cucumbers, is lively and refreshing. On the other hand, ahi poke is a miserable appetizer attempt. The smallish cubes of tuna are poorly marinated and no match for the overpowering soba chips used to scoop them. Oddly, the soba chips taste more like flour tortillas than anything else. A seared albacore tuna salad offering is no better. The albacore itself is chewy and flavorless with nary a trace of the tuna’s finer qualities, which are buttery and flaky. Wasabi’s distinct laid-back vibe and East Village New York-y feel helps to lessen the blow of the sub-par sushi. Groups of hipsters line the bar surfing the web on laptops while sipping after-work cocktails, which happen to be the strong suit of this urban sushi bar. Get distracted by a tasty wasabi martini made from wasabi vodka, garnished with cucumber and pickled ginger and served with tuna sashimi. The glass is rimmed with a spicy bloody mary salt mixture. |
 Wasabi martini garnished with cucumber and pickled ginger, and tuna sashimi Price Range: |
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| Melanie searches the menu for further abuse; I roll my eyes and order another martini. Extra spicy rim, please. |
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| tom@atlantacuisine.com |
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