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8/10/05 |
Driving up and
down busy Roswell side streets on a scorching hot Saturday
afternoon daunted by the relentlessly grueling task of deciding
where to eat, Melanie points and says, “I’ve never
eaten there.” From years of experience, I now know
this actually means – “Park it! We are eating here.”
We climb the steps of Fickle Pickle only to be greeted by a horribly
long line stretching out the front door. Stuck standing behind
four yammering old hags bitching about the high humidity and
how it’s rendering their industrial strength hairspray useless.
We suddenly realize we just aren’t in the mood for this
today – simultaneously shrugging our shoulders – we
exit.
I’m feeling a little urban but find myself in the deep throes
of cultureless hell only because I’ve consumed everything
ITP, at least in the way of Saturday lunch. I suppose this is
penance for my obsessive gluttonous behavior.
Something with exposed brick walls and creaky hard woods would
do the trick for me. You know, somewhere a little less prudish
and offering a decent beer selection, though, that’s much
easier said than found here in the burbs. Unfortunately, not
many out this way think to bless their good patrons with an imaginative
beer list.
Smokejack, being the only Alpha/Roswell eatery remaining on my
short list of places to try, should fit the bill. Located in
an old Historic building lining downtown Alpharetta’s Main
St., it stands a chance of being slightly cool. And, it is.
I was told to enter Smokejack under the mindset that it’s
an American restaurant that just happens to serve barbecue, but
by no means is it a barbecue joint. Hmm. Though I agree this
place isn’t a joint, it does smell strikingly similar to
that of a barbecue joint, and they strategically stamp
the word barbeque on their logo – Smokejack Blues & Barbeque.
But who am I to get all technical and stuff? Besides, I’m
only here because I’m fresh out of new dining rooms to haunt.
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Rainbow Trout over sweet corn pudding,
green beans and pecan brown butter sauce
Price Range: Apps:
$4 - $8.50, Lunch Entrees: $7.50 - $15.50, Dinner Entrees:
$7.50 - $21.50
Hours:
Mon -Thurs: 11am -10pm
Fri-Sat: 11am-11pm
Sun 11am - 9pm
Address/Tel: 29 South Main St, Alpharetta
Tel: 770-410-7611
Notes:
*Service is usually flawless
* The use of all natural meats with barbecue is both
interesting and unique
*I tip my hat to the effort put into the beer list.
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Admittedly, I'm not in the mood for barbecue, but the smoker’s
seducing aromas waft through the dining room rapidly changing
that mindset. And a Smokejack mojo combo (barbecue combo plate)
is just what I need – ribs with Memphis rub, brisket and
pork toting sides of beans and mac-n-cheese.
For starters, our fried pickles were dropped at the wrong table
(whose occupants did report back favorably). Meanwhile, my combo
plate arrives totally incorrect, so I spear a burnt end of brisket
just as the waitress grabs my plate to take back to the kitchen.
(Sue me.) Besides, it really wasn’t that good. But then,
I’m not much on burnt ends – I generally find them
to be, well, burnt.
In the meantime, an unruffled manager (who turned out to be owner
David Filipowicz) placed our fried pickles in front of us and
apologized. Remarkably, after this odd sequence of events, my
appetizer still managed to arrive before my entrée, and
somehow, in timely fashion – unconventional but effective
in a Maxwell Smart sort of way.
Fried pickles arrive with a heady hot pink sauce for dipping,
tasty, but I prefer the spicy non-fried pickles that accompany
bread service at dinner. The ribs on the combo plate are dry
and tough, as is the pork, which is thickly sliced and covered
in a cloying mustard sauce. The brisket, though sliced thinly,
is the better of the barbecue options.
I admire Smokejack for using all natural meats in their barbecue.
And on two subsequent visits I was served juicier ribs with less
grip. Not to mention, kitchen to table service was flawlessly
executed. Proving to me that Smokejack is just as inconsistent
with their barbecue as any other barbecue joint.
A delicately prepared Rainbow Trout is served over freshly grilled
but slightly over seasoned green beans, a bready corn pudding
and savory pecan brown butter sauce. Go figure, the best dish
out of the kitchen wasn’t barbecue after all. Maybe I should
have listened when I was told that Smokejack is an American restaurant
that just happens to serve barbecue.
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| Contact Tom: tom@altantacuisine.com |
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