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6/28/05 |
Over the years
I’ve thoughtlessly jumped into entirely too many
spirited barbecue debates that left me beaten and battered.
I’ve had my nose bloodied and eyebrows singed more times
than I care to remember. As we all know too well; barbecue
is one of those scrappy topics that takes no prisoners.
Nowadays, lesson learned. Whenever the stubborn subject rears
its ugly head, I find it best to simply nod as if I’m of
the same mind then merrily go about my business. No reason to
lay my pork out for a shredding, barbecue is much like politics – no
matter how well you think you state your point, nobody ever budges,
or suddenly sees the light and is compelled to change his or
her mind. Besides, I have the luxury of safely voicing my opinion
right here then watching my email box quickly pile up with volatile
yet amusing missives authored by tetchy ‘cue hounds.
So let’s go ahead and get this party started with a few
I’m really liking lately…
Swallow at The Hollow (1072 Green St., Roswell Tel: 678-352-1975)
Many feel this one puts out the best barbecue in metro Atlanta.
In their defense, there’s much to be liked about SATH including
some of the best sides and mac-n-cheese you’ll find in any
barbecue shack around town. But what I like most about this one
is the thick slices of airy homemade Texas toast and fluffy yet
dense biscuits. I don’t know about you, but I get tired
of fumbling with mushy slices of Wonder bread that can’t
possibly hold up, and shouldn’t be asked to.
Ribs are basted with a molasses and apple cider vinegar laden
sauce forming a crusty outer shell that gives way to moist succulent
meat, which slightly clings to the bone. Pulled pork usually
holds a deep smokiness with crispy outer edges and charred bits
tossed in. My only complaint would be that the surface meat is
sometimes too dry. But consistency plagues all barbecue joints,
or at least that’s the case in this town.
Smith’s Olde Bar for Fox Bros BBQ (1580 Piedmont
Ave, Midtown Tel: 404-875-1522)
Yep, you heard me – Smith’s Olde Bar. Fox Bros BBQ,
a catering company owned and operated by two brothers from Texas,
serves the best barbecue I’ve had since I did time in Texas.
Pulled pork is available every single night of the week, but
I recommend a Wednesday night appointment. That is the one night
of the week they drop off dry rubbed ribs and killer brisket,
which arrives with a distinct purple ring and spicy dry rub that
sets it apart from anything else I’ve ever encountered in
Atlanta.
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Ribs and pork with Mac-n-Cheese at
SATH
Hours:
Wed -Thurs: 11am -2:30pm/5pm-10pm
Fri-Sat: 11am-2:30, and 5pm - 11pm Sun 11am - 2:30pm and
5pm - 9pm
Address and Telephone: 1072 Green St, Roswell
Tel: 678-352-1975
Hours:
7 days at night only. Ribs and Brisket only served
on Wednesday nights
Address and Telephone: 1580 Piedmont Ave, Midtown
Tel: 404-875-1522
Hours:
Tue -Sun: 11am -2pm and 5pm - 10pm
Wed-Thur: 11am-2:30, and 5pm - 8pm
Fri-Sat: 11am - 8pm
Address and Telephone: 1173 Hwy 29 South,
Lawrenceville Tel: 770-963-5383
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I like
barbecue that gives off some heat. Okay, a lot of heat. When
I lived in Texas, every day during the summer my younger brother
and I would walk about one mile to a slanted in the wind rickety
shack, a thick plume of smoke continuously blowing over the
roof. Out of this beat up structure the size of an outhouse,
the seating capacity consisted of one picnic table located
behind the building, an older lady served brisket that wearing
a wickedly hot dry rub unlike anything I'd ever had before.
Since those day, I say bring on the heat.
While I’m coming clean and telling you what I like, I usually
prefer a vinegar-based Carolina sauce. And if you are like me,
you should find Fox Bros sauce to be drinkably good. It’s
a complex sauce that I consider a cross between Carolina vinegar
and spicy tomato Texas. Some describe it as they would a complex
wine because of the way it plays tunes with your taste buds before
finishing with a little heat. I describe it as an intelligent
sauce with soul, mainly for the way it brings your mouth to life.
Either way, we finally have rock solid ITP barbecue, guys.
Hometown Barbeque (1173 Hwy 29 South, Lawrenceville Tel:
770-963-5383)
Hometown barbeque, located in Lawrenceville, has garnered the
undivided attention of many barbecue aficionados over the past
year or so. I only recently made a few long journeys north to
see for myself what the commotion is all about. I found consistently
prepared pulled pork with a deep smoky flavor, but sadly, no
charred bits or crispy edges. Ribs are the better choice – the
meat tender and gently latching to the bone making you work for
it, just a little.
Brunswick stew at Hometown Barbeque is a much better than average
outing, not overly stewed like many around town. Two sauces:
Original (sweet) and Carolina-vinegar with a touch of mustard.
Normally, I’d exit a fan of the Carolina-vinegar, but this
version is oddly acidic and obscure. Believe it or not, I recommend
the original – it’s more enjoyable and not nearly as
sweet as most.
I wouldn’t go as far as anointing Hometown the best barbecue
around, but I certainly wouldn’t gripe if I were told I
had to eat lunch there tomorrow.
Now that I've told you which ones I have been liking lately,
here’s a couple I’m not so high on these day:
Daddy DZ (264 Memorial Dr at Hill St. Tel: 404-222-0206)
for many years was one of the better options as far as Atlanta
barbecue was concerned, with ribs being the strongest part of
their game. However, a recent change in ownership has resulted
in a severe decline in quality. Now, ribs are often tough and
rubbery, pork is dismally dry and mac-n-cheese is obviously from
a box.
For now, it’s cornbread to go and that’s all, folks.
Pig-N-Chick (4920 Roswell Rd., Atlanta Tel: 404-255-6368),
catapulted into the spotlight by former AJC food critic John
Kessler, will occasionally serve tasty pulled pork, not earth
shattering, but tasty. However, leathery ribs are a pathetic
effort and sides laughably taste grocery store bought along with
the sauces. Thank god for the Wonder Bread, or my most recent
visit would have been a total loss.
Ding, ding, ding.
This round goes to me. If you have an opinion to file please
send your electronically transmitted abuse to the email address
below. I can take it.
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| email: tom@altantacuisine.com |
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