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10/15/04 |
With my window
down and radio up – I can hear squeaky brakes and
I can feel the tension mounting from the drowning sea of
impatient motorists slowly going nowhere.
“DAMN!, HOW THE HELL DID YOU EVER GET A DRIVER'S LICENSE,
BITCH?” I scream at the lady driving the Mercedes that cut
me off, as I blast my horn for an annoyingly extended period
of time. I'm a road-raged maniac and this is one of the most
ferocious stretches of traffic this town has to offer. I'm talking
about the Roswell Rd area just outside the perimeter – it sucks,
big time. HONK! |
California Roll |
It's hard to believe
that with all this traffic the strip center, which houses RiceSticks
as well as several other restaurants, is virtually left unconscious.
You'd imagine somebody would stop in, sooner or later.
Finally, I see my 'lunch partner du jour' scampering across the
parking lot, fifteen minutes late. “Sorry, traffic around
here is horrific!” he says. Though, guilty in demeanor.
Then, pointing to the parking lot entranceway, he asks, “did
you see that African-American guy with a blond Mohawk waiving
a RiceSticks sign at traffic?” Admittedly, it was a funny
as hell spectacle.
RiceSticks recently unleashed their new fall menu featuring Atlanta's
first and only Spring Roll menu. The spring rolls are affordably
priced at $2.50 during lunch and range between $2.75 and $4 on
the dinner menu.
One of the many things I like about Vietnamese fare is their
generous use of fresh vegetables and herbs. Spring rolls are
often filled with soft, chewy meats and seafood, then offset
by a crunchy cucumber, rice noodles, fresh cilantro and Thai
basil – all fresh, crisp and full of life.
Besides serving only traditional spring rolls, RiceSticks also
offers playful takes on Japanese sushi. A perfect example is
the Unagi Roll, a light barbecued eel and pickled ginger served
with a kick ass but subtle lemon soy sauce. In my opinion, the
flavors are more distinct when wrapped in thin-skinned rice paper,
as opposed to the more traditional Japanese sushi wrappers.
The California Roll is another Vietnamese twist to a Japanese
roll. The Thai basil actually sets well with this dish, much
better than I had originally expected. I initially feared that
it, along with cilantro, might overpower the sweetness of the
crab but I'll admit to being wrong.
The more exotic Octopus Roll contains slender octopus slices
that have undergone a slow simmering, leaving the tentacles only
slightly chewy, therefore, palatable.
Don't worry if the Japanese take isn't your style, the kitchen
does proffer conventional spring rolls for the habitual Vietnamese
junky, such as myself. Probably, none more traditional than the
caramelized pork roll; featuring the two tastes we all crave
most – sweet and salty.
However, I didn't stop by RiceSticks solely for their spring
rolls; I also had pho on my mind. But knowing RiceSticks as well
as I do, I feared they'd be more than just a little gun shy with
the star anise and clove. And they were. It's just that I prefer
my pho to be so aromatic that the entire restaurant reeks of
it, I guess I'm just a 'phoking' snob.
Since pilfering bites of the Vietnamese Beef Stew from 'lunch
partner du jour', I've made two special visits, solely for the
stew, in less than a week. Tender cubes of beef and yams lay
in a pool of sweet, coconut milk broth spiked with a kick of
anise and clove – the quintessential combination
found in most, if not all, Vietnamese soups and stews. The broth
arrives thin but thickens as it absorbs the starch from the yams.
I can eat this stew all winter long – it's bursting at the
seams with flavor.
Overall, I like the new direction the RiceSticks menu has taken
but I fear it doesn't jive with its upscale interior. The initial
menu and concept was upscale Vietnamese and the décor
matched. The one room dining area is chic with hip, odd-shaped
light fixtures and dark woods.
I guess I just feel out of place slurping pho in such a swank
environment. I also feel a little awkward as I stuff my face
with Unagi Rolls as rice noodles dangle from my lips and that
killer lemon soy sauce drops from my chin. But that's not enough
to stop me from going back.
If you've already experienced RiceSticks, you now have good reason
to return. If not, what the hell are you waiting for?
Price Range: Spring Rolls - $2.50 (Lunch )/$2.75 - $4
(Dinner), Lunch Entrees- $6.25 - $8, Dinner - $8 -$25
Key Notes:
Spring roll menu is fun
Vietnamese Beef Stew is killer
Surrounding area traffic can be ferocious
5920 Roswell Rd, Atlanta Tel: 404-252-6337
email: tom@atlantacuisine.com |
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