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5/19/05 |
Bob Amick’s
ONE.Midtown Kitchen was an instant hit with the trendy
see and wannabe seen crowds. Arriving in dramatic fashion – featuring
newly renovated hip warehouse digs highlighted by its strongly
masculine interior – ONE was bursting at the seams every
single night of the week. Anywhere from two to three hour
waits and a severely overcrowded bar rudely greeted those
in hopes to capture a shimmering moment amidst the frenzy.
Were they flocking for the food? Or was it the dazzling streaky
fixtures and frozen beer taps, which sit like magnificent sculptures
on the bar top? Speaking only from my past experiences here,
I’d say they came for the atmosphere – food was just
an afterthought. Although, that creamy goat cheese stuffed griddled
sourdough with wild mushroom truffles was certainly a worthy
excuse, if you needed one, to go cleavage, uh, I mean, people
watching.
But now enter Blais – Atlanta’s beloved culinary bad
boy, who, by no means is in need of introduction. He’s most
known for his short-lived, flash-in-the-pan restaurant named
Blais where he, among other tricks, transformed purées
into ethereal foams giving Atlanta its first true glimpse at
molecular gastronomy.
Love ‘em or hate ‘em, he became the most talked about
chef in Atlanta, seemingly overnight. His sudden rise to fame
was not solely based on his escapades with the outer reaches
of gastronomy, but because he is, without question, a very talented
chef with excellent technique and an extraordinary understanding
of flavors and textures, which at times borderlines genius.
But after three consecutive failed stints, Fishbone, Blais and
BazZaar, I naturally presumed he’d be a bit rattled. Au
contrair, I’ve never before seen Blais so poised and confident,
self tamed and so in command – so totally
not what I expected.
Admittedly, I’ve secretly missed many of his signature flavors
such as vaporized beer broth spiked with coriander butter – a
fabulously aromatic concoction now being served with Mussels.
But I lucked out by request and got the kitchen to whip mine
up with clams instead – a dish he flawlessly prepared nightly
at my once adored but now defunct, Fishbone.
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Veal Bone Bolognese
Price Range: Apps:
$6 - $12
Entrees: $14 - $24
Hours:
Mon - Thurs: 5:30 -
midnight
Fri & Sat: 5:30 - 1am
Sunday: 5:30 - 10pm
Address and Telephone: 559 Dutch Valley Rd, Atlanta
Tel: 404-892-4111
Notes:
*The once stagnant menu receives a much needed injection.
*Blais is surprisingly poised and confident, much like
a Superbowl quarterback leading his team to victory.
*It's more reminiscent of Fishbone than of Blais, meaning,
he's tamed.
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And you’ll notice much of what he's doing here brings back
shades of Fishbone, with a little Blais tossed in, of course.
In other words, he comes straight at you with shtick then tosses
in an occasional prank, such as Worcestershire jelly or blue
cheese foam, just as a teaser.
The most fabulous dish of the night, and quite possibly even
my year, was a handsomely thick bone-in Swordfish chop, which
arrived so impossibly tender I melted in my chair. Swordfish
is a difficult fish to handle; I haven’t even bothered to
eat swordfish in this town since the demise of Blais, so I was
delighted to see it offered as a special, and even happier to
learn that it will be offered once a week as a nightly special.
For those long-time followers of Blais, such as myself, it’s
a definite throw back to his Fishbone days with the accompaniments:
diced spicy chorizo, raisins and long cut fingerling potatoes.
Other notables:
I’d be perfectly content eating the Veal Bone Bolognese
every single day for the rest of my life. Its rich, hearty flavors
are hopelessly addicting. But the most intriguing part of this
dish is the halved bone filled with spongy marrow topped and
flavored with oily herbal breadcrumbs.
Razor Clams and Scallops, swimming in a pool of sweet but not
cloying orange juice and ketchup, served in a cocktail glass
and Steak Tartare with Asian pears, eggs and Worcestershire jelly
are more reminiscent of the chef’s later days at Blais.
Blais informs me that the menu is currently a work in progress
and that the hideously insipid Shellfish Woodroast is next to
undergo some much needed changes. But don’t worry; The Goat
Cheese Griddle is staying as is the crispy wood oven pizzas and
hanger steak with parmesan fries.
He’s obviously been brought in by Bob Amick to inject life
into ONE’s stagnant and lifeless menu. With this move, Amick,
unlike Tom Catherall (Here To Serve Restaurants), shows he truly
cares about the food his restaurants put on the table, and that
it’s not ALL about money and numbers.
For those who don't know Bob, he's the most intense restaurateur
I’ve ever met. He's reached that point in his life where
he could spend the rest of his days in the office counting Benjamins
and spanking waitresses. But not Amick. You’ll find him
out on the floor of one of his restaurants bussing tables, greeting
guests and fetching drinks.
He knows exactly where to stand in each restaurant – that
one place that tells all – in just moments he's fully apprised
of important happenings, such as ticket times and service. He’s
a real pro and obviously not afraid to roll up his sleeves and
get dirty, if that’s what it takes.
I must admit, this marriage between Blais and Amick appears,
at least for now, to be a win - win situation.
Can it last? Well, I don’t have an answer to that one. Only
time will tell, I guess.
For now, it’s just refreshing to know that this foodie has
an excuse to rub elbows with the cleavage crowd.
email: tom@atlantacuisine.com |
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