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MixToss this one into the "Mix"
11/04/05 |
The
Brookhaven area is one that severely lacks in the way of
dining. Neighborhood foodies are just thankful to have Buford
Highway only a stone’s throw away. But Michel Arnette,
who also owns Haven, is apparently out to alter Brookhaven’s
culinary scene for the better. He now tosses Mix into, well,
the mix.
Mix is a tapas restaurant & lounge located in the same building
as sister restaurant, Haven, and is unquestionably the trendier
of the two. Trendy enough for us to consider hitting the exit
before being sat – memories of Piebar still too fresh on
our minds.
“If the food here is just half as bad as Piebar I’m
leaving immediately.” Melanie makes herself clear with
a stern finger to my face as the hostess stares in total disbelief. “And
don’t even think about asking me to come back in two days.” She
finishes.
Whoa! There’s nothing worse than a women scorned over six
masochistic meals under the same roof. Thanks Piebar.
At this point, I’m thinking two small plates and hope the
door doesn’t slap me in the ass on my way out. But then,
a promising stark white vessel of marinated Baby Octopus arrives
grilled and tender, served over radish and avocado salad with
the most delicate of wasabi aioli. One of the best octopus dishes
I’ve eaten in recent memory.
Not too far behind, thinly sliced Ostrich Carpaccio with yuzu & orange
vinaigrette is sprinkled with sel gris then placed in front of
us by chef Carmen Cappello, who genuinely takes a little extra
time to ask our opinion of the octopus.
“Very good.” Melanie assures him before he proudly
scampers off.
Swanky scenesters gather along the winding bar and have quickly
become our evening’s entertainment. We’re particularly
amused at one middle-aged man who is hitting on two voluptuous
twenty-somethings. It’s not the fact that he really doesn’t
stand a chance in hell at scoring that ménage a trois
that humors us most – it’s his heinously oversized
toupee.
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Chef Cappello and his baby octopus
Price Range:
Small Plates: $5 - $11
Pizza: $7
Large Plates: $17
Hours:
Mon - Thurs: 5:30 - 11pm
Fri & Sat: 5:30 - Midnight
Address/Tel: 1441 Dresden Dr., Atlanta (Brookhaven
area) Tel: 404-969-3250
Notes:
*Don't let the nightclub scene scare you off, the
food is not to be missed.
* Cappello is a "young gun" chef to be watched.
*Make sure you lock the door when visiting the loo.
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I recommend
sitting at one of the five bar seats that face directly into
the kitchen – it’s the closest thing to actually
being in the kitchen. However, watch your drink, if it spills
you’re certain to spoil at least a half a days prep. From
here you are practically a part of the action in the kitchen,
and, from a tolerable distance, you can digest the scene. Just
make sure you don’t allow that scene to scare you off
too quickly – Cappello’s creative works are not to
be missed. Thickly cut cubes of Blue Fin Tuna are carefully
positioned over a crumbly soiling of cornflakes then showered
with black sesame seeds. Foie Gras is offset with an orange-y marmalade
and is plated with a peppery Japanese seasoning known as togarashi
pepper.
Cappello’s menu is creatively adventurous but wisely stays
within boundaries. You won’t be forced to decipher far-fetched
foams and jellies, but you will notice that his technique is
rock solid. Juicy Mediterranean Mussels bathe in a perky harissa-fired
broth that is so brilliantly prepared you’ll consider your
straw a viable utensil.
Veal Scaloppini is perfectly pounded into paper-thin sheets,
covered with Italian breadcrumbs and then pan-fried. Served over
creamy marscapone polenta and broccoli rabe. Homage paid to his
Italian roots.
The menu, at least for now, is frequently changing. It’s
important to note that Mix has only been open about a month and
the kitchen is still trying to find its (and the neighborhood’s)
comfort zone. For example, Oxtail Ravioli sadly disappeared from
the menu between my first and second visits.
But I must say, it’s a pleasant surprise to come across
a young chef such as Cappello (27) who pushes the envelope without
aiming to be overly bizarre. Focusing on technique and ingredients
rather than getting all caught up in shooting the next oddity
of a foam through a canister – as most of his generation
of chefs.
Tip of The Day
Visiting the loo at Mix can be an unnerving experience. Make
sure you lock the door or else you’re private business will
become a public *pee*p show.
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| Contact Tom: tom@altantacuisine.com |
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