Who
remembers RiceSticks? Kevin Tran attempted upscale-ish Vietnamese
peasant food, and he did it well. Directly across from
the now defunct RiceSticks is a small storefront that goes
by the name Chef Rob’s Caribbean Café.
Chef Rob — one of those savvy CIA grads — hopes to
imperialize lowly island grub. With most entrees priced
between $16 and $18 (one is even a lofty $21) this is a risky
venture for the young chef. Think about it, when was the last
time you dropped $16 on a plate of oxtails or curried goat? And,
I doubt you’ve ever splurged $12 solely for an appetizer,
at your usual spot for Jamaican fare.
But don’t let any of that “never have paid that much” business
persuade you from giving Chef Rob’s Caribbean Café a
try. Tender, meaty oxtails are slowly simmered in a sublime veal
stock rife with red wine and zesty herbs. Bahamian Steamed Mussels – large
suckers – arrive by the boatload swimming in a heady, herb-invigorated
coconut broth.
Chef Rob is a real chef, and real chefs apply thoughtful technique
to even the most standard of dishes. For instance, a side of
fresh collards is wisely spruced up with bits of shredded pork,
whose fat content cuts the bitterness of the greens while lending
a much-needed buttery texture to an otherwise mundane offering.
Real chefs also know a little something about quality ingredients – and,
by nature – are compelled to utilize them. Chef Rob mixes
heirloom tomatoes in with his lively Sun Fest House Salad, along
with crunchy cucumbers and finely chopped jicama – the latter
a nice textural touch.
But sometimes chefs will outthink themselves or let their customers
do the thinking for them. The curried goat is a perfect example.
Though tender, it needs just a tad more kick to set if off and
bring it to life. Chefs (for whatever reason) innately fear spicy
heat. However, it’s still tasty enough to sweep up with
warm roti bread.
When it comes to dessert, Jamaican fruitcake is generously infused
with Jamaican rum and proves to be the better of the options.
The sweet mango cheesecake is nothing more than ordinary, though,
slightly lighter than most.
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Unctuous oxtails
Price Range:
$$ - average meal
$20 not including tax, tip and alcohol
Type of Cuisine: Caribbean
Hours:
Lunch:
Tue - Thurs: 11am, - 10:pm
Fri: 11am - 2am
Sat & Sun: 5pm - 2am
Address/Tel: 5920 Roswell Rd. Suite 117, Sandy
Springs Tel: 404.250.3737
Recommended Dishes: Oxtails, Bahamian Steamed
Mussels, Sunfest House Salad, Fried Sweet Plantains
Wheel Chair Access: Yes
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