Week: Thur.
April 6th, 2006
My neighborhood desperately needs more quality, independently
owned and operated restaurants. So I closely followed the unhurried
arrival of Starfish Sushi & Sake Bar, located in the Aramore
condominium complex, which also houses one of this city’s
best restaurants – Restaurant Eugene.
Starfish arrives on our flourishing dining scene boasting contemporary
Japanese cuisine and sushi. I’ve noticed more chefs claiming
their cuisine to be “contemporary” these days. And
by simply placing the word on a menu, is like handing the chef
a license to throw caution to the wind and break all the rules.
So don’t expect too much in the way of “traditionally” Japanese
when dining at Starfish, one sushi chef, though clearly Japanese
by birth, speaks with a southern twang, on top of that, there’s
some sort of silly movie theme going on with the rolls and the
dessert menu oddly features crème brulee and panna cotta.
Despite being a wee bit gimmicky, Starfish comes through for
fussy south Buckhead neighborhood diners like myself. During
one visit, I encountered a uniquely prepared Hamachi Kama, unusual
in that the collar is wisely carved to include an ample-sized
portion of the fish’s belly side to yield one order of sashimi,
which is served while affixed to the raw collar. The moment we
finished the sashimi, our precious collar meat was wisped away
to the kitchen to be lightly seasoned and broiled.
Occasionally, raw fish options arrive so chilly they are stiff,
but more times than not, you’ll blissfully slide buttery
hamachi and silky toro down your gullet.
A traditionally prepared warm bowl of Udon comes with a side
of togarashi – a popular Japanese spice with a special affinity
for noodle soups.
While on the topic of noodles, Starfish promises cold soba noodle
salads during the stifling hot summer months.
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Hamachi Kama w/belly side
sashimi
Type of Cuisine: Contemporary
Japanese
Address/Tel: 2255 Peachtree Rd., Suite E&F,
Tel: 404-350-0799
Recommended Items: Hamachi Kama and Sashimi,
Udon, Squid Salad
Price:
$25 - $30 per person
Decor:
Contemporary
Hours:
Lunch:
Mon - Fri:11:30 - 2:30pm
Dinner:
Mon - Thurs: 5pm - 10:30pm
Fri & Sat: 5pm - 11pm
Sun: 5pm - 10pm
|
This
newly arrived “contemporary” Japanese restaurant
is still trying to get it's footing, and may stumble from time
to time. For example, crème brulee is incorrectly prepared
in a dish that’s entirely too deep. As a result, it cooks
unevenly – some spoonfuls are too runny while others are
overcooked and cake-y.
Sevice is friendly but sorely lacks in menu knowledge. However,
this restaurant is only two weeks old and as far as I'm concerned,
has every right to act its age.
Starfish isn't going to replace the now defunct Soto as this
city's premier sushi house, but I suspect several of my neighbors
will gladly add it to their regular dining rotation.
Contact Tom: tom@altantacuisine.com |
