Week: Thur. December 14th 2006
My last meal at the Patio, the space where Shaun’s currently resides, was one my top ten most hilarious dining experiences, ever. Just as we sat at a front window table, the restaurant’s manager, an odd dark-haired fellow wearing obnoxiously bright pink pants and shiny black loafers, strapped a giant leaf blower onto his back and began blowing leaves off the sidewalk. Too bad the food wasn’t nearly as entertaining.
Shaun Doty, the new occupant of this space, is probably most recognized for his work at Mumbo Jumbo. Doty’s culinary MO is straightforward, well executed, and reasonably priced, giving us good reason to return to that leafy, out-of-the-way corner of Inman Park. And I’m seriously considering a weekly visit for the soul-soothing winter brodo alone. Served in an awkwardly tall glass bowl is a poached egg, strewn strips of pulled Berkshire pork and the most seductively chewy farro, all gently bathing in a rich, redolent broth that sings pork fat goodness with every last slurp.
Oddly, Doty offers a cheeseburger on the dinner menu. And it’s not just any old ordinary cheeseburger — but a wallet-clearing $16 wagyu beef cheeseburger, on a menu that’s otherwise fairly priced. Thankfully, it comes with fries.
We had better luck with the shrimp and creamy Anson Mill grits, despite the fact that it’s served in that same uncomfortably tall glass bowl. Don’t get the wrong impression here, it’s a really cool bowl, but it forces you to lift your elbows unusually high off the table to get over the lid of the bowl, forcing you to flap your arms when eating, as if performing some goofy bird dance for the entire dining room.
That same winter brodo can be had for Sunday brunch, which is served from 10am until 2pm. The best of the more brunchy type options here might be the McCann’s steel cut irish oatmeal, topped with a delicate cinnamon foam and crystallized maple syrup. Yes Cliff, the cinnamon foam looks like spit, but it's tasty.
When I’m in the mood for pure simply prepared high quality ingredients, I’ll return. Who am I kidding? I could go for a bowl of that warm winter brodo right now, bird dance and all. |
Winter Brodo
Type of Cuisine: American
Address/Tel:
1029 Edgewood Ave, Inman Park, GA., 30307 Tel: 404.577.4358
Recommended: Winter brodo, shrimp and grits, McCann's steel cut irish oatmeal (brunch), smoothies (brunch), house-cured bacon
Pricing:
Most dishes under $25
Hours:
Wed - Thur: 5pm - 10pm
Fri & Sat: pm - 11pm
Sun brunch: 10am - 2pm
Sun dinner: 5pm - 9pm
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