Pure Taqueria
Week: Thur. August 18th

Alas, the first indication that those god awful Tex-Mex joints might finally be on the way out. First, Cantina La Casita is a hit in the urban East Atlanta Village serving food with a fiery kick. Now, Pure Taqueria attempts first impressions in suburban Alpharetta.

A father of two seated at the table next to us receives his plate of beef tongue tacos ($1.99 each) and signals to the waitress to bring him a second Schlitz (.99). It’s utterly repulsive to watch. And I think you know darn good ‘n’ well I’m not talking about the blissfully slow braised beef tongue – it’s the best item on the menu by a mile.

My Schlitz, only ordered because I obviously have an inescapable urge to partake in train wrecks, was left virtually untouched. At this point in my illustrious beer drinking career, I find it unfit for human (or any other creature) consumption.

Pure Taqueria is styled to give the feel of a vacated garage on a lonely desert highway filled with junky old refrigerators and coolers. Opened by the same owners as Van Gogh’s, you can expect taqueria-ish fare in a highfalutin Van Gogh’s sort of way.

Tres Leches of shrimp, squid and grouper arrives in glasses with crispy plantain chips. Heavenly Hood Canal oysters are accompanied by a tangy cilantro-lime-jalpeno "hogwash" for dipping.

Carne Asada is cut into thick juicy portions and served medium rare but hardly wears sauce – in other words – high quality but bland. Fish tacos are the better of the options – delicate strips of grouper heaped with a lively poblano slaw.

I was told the Cabeza taco (cheek meat) was removed from the menu due to difficulties receiving the product. Whatever.

If you’re taking the entrée route, the succulent Lamb Shank draped with smokey pasilla chiles is amazingly tender. And for dessert the pineapple flan is pleasantly dense and tres leches is light and creamy.


Tres ceviches with plantain chips and a can of Schlitz

Type of Cuisine: Mexican

Address/Tel:
103 Roswell St., Alpharetta Tel: 678-240-0023

Recommended: (New Items) Fish Tacos, Beef Tongue Tacos, Tres Ceviches, Oysters, Braised Lamb Shank (cordero estilo el D.F.)

Pricing:
Appetizers: $4.25 - $ 12.99
Entrees: $6.99 - $14.99
Desserts: $3.99 - $5.99

Hours:
Mon.-Sun. 5pm - 10pm (Bar til 11pm)

All in all, I did enjoy Pure but at times I wanted to see the kitchen take a few chances; the menu is ultimately too safe for my taste buds. I will say the beef tongue alone is worthy of a visit and quite possibly the best I’ve ever eaten.

And, as far as I'm concerned; witnessing folks willfully imbibe with Schlitz merits at least a drive-by.



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