Week: Thur. January 18, 2007
With so many youngsters honing their skills at Tamarind and Nan over the past several years, it was just a matter of time before our city’s Thai restaurants would finally profit from the phenomenon known as trickle-down gastronomics. Fortunately for those in Alpharetta, newly opened Nahm Thai Cuisine is the latest profiteer. Chef and co-owner Yuttna Thongyoung cooked at Nan prior to opening his modestly yet well-designed restaurant with wife, Nahm. They even brought with them the much-celebrated Montri, formerly of Montri’s and Tamarind, to assist in the kitchen.
On a menu loaded with confident offerings, the most exciting dish, surprisingly, is a mild-mannered chicken coconut soup (Tom kha kai). Think warm. Think silky. Think buttery — but in a textural sort of way.
Thongyoung has tremendous feel for flavor and texture. Roasted duck salad gives you your sweet, piquant, and nutty all at the same time. Meanwhile, panang curry achieves an almost unobtainable level of rich creamy goodness. Likewise with a plate of spicy green curry.
What also distinguishes Nahm over the plethora of standard issue Thai restaurants in this city; is the kitchen’s careful attention to fresh quality ingredients. Snappy string beans are just slightly cooked to make sure they maintain their perkiness.
Ironically, Nahm’s use of Thai eggplant is a rare culinary act, even for a Thai restaurant. Figure that one out over a side of organic brown rice.
If this is what trickle-down gastronomics has in store for us in the way of Thai cuisine, there is an economic recession on the way for all those inferior Thai restaurants.
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Siky coconut soup
Type of Cuisine: Thai
Address/Tel:
5310 Windward Pkwy, Suite C, Alpharetta,. GA., Tel: 678.762.1818
Recommended: Tom kha kai, basil rolls, calamari, panang curry, green curry, pad thai, jumbo prawn in green curry
Pricing:
All but one entree under $20
Hours:
Mon-Fri: 11am-3pm/5pm - 10pm
Sat: noon - 10pm
Sun: 5am - 9pm
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