Week: Thur. April 13th, 2006
During the Vietnamese war Laotian members of the Hmong (pronounced with silent “H”) tribe bravely clashed with the Communist Pathet Lao and North Vietnamese Army along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It was the Hmong who graciously guarded US Air Force radar installations, flew deadly combat missions in support of the Armed Forces and undertook death-defying rescue missions to save downed American pilots.
After the war, many Lao-Hmong soldiers were brutally tortured and killed by the Pathet Lao, causing them to flee to neighboring Thailand. When it was all said and done, more than 35,000 Lao-Hmong, which means “free people”, had lost their lives.
So it’s easy to see why the Lao-Hmong are known for their warrior tradition, loyalty and bravery. They are a simple people whose humble roots are reflected in their cuisine – soups made of clean broths, steamed catfish wrapped in banana leaves, sticky rice and tofu. And that pretty much sums it up.
I guess the issue of limited Hmong options is probably why Hmong House’s menu looks more like that of a Thai restaurant than an actual Hmong eatery. And Thai options here aren’t too shabby, a generous portion of Larb is vibrant and spicy – one of the best versions I’ve eaten in this city, and Pad Thai ranks better than average.
But I quickly tire of Thai cuisine whose presence is felt on every street corner and strip center in this town. So I say, when at the Hmong House, eat like a Hmong. But in order to do so, you must call at least two hours in advance and request your Hmong meal, which surprisingly isn’t even listed on the menu.
I whole-heartedly recommend steamed catfish wrapped in banana leaves. A steamy and stew-y mass of catfish medallions that once unwrapped – fills the air with a pleasant amalgamation of aromas such as ginger and cilantro together with the faintest whisper of star anise. Oddly, it’s a hearty meal yet light enough to eat all summer long.
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Spicy Larb
Type of Cuisine: Thai, Hmong, Vietnamese
Address/Tel: 1197 Old Peachtree Rd, Suwanee Tel: 770-495-4949
Recommended Items: Hmong Pho, Larb, Papaya Salad, Ribs, Steamed fish (Hmong Specialty) and Pork Soup (Hmong Specialty), Hmong Hot Sauce
Price:
Most under $15
Decor:
Simple yet pleasant
Hours:
Lunch:
Mon - Sat - 11am - 2:30pm
Dinner:
Mon - Thurs: 5pm - 10:30pm
Fri & Sat: 5pm - 11pm
Sun: Closed
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Another Hmong specialty not mentioned on the menu is pork rib soup served in a simple, clean broth with only sher li hon (mustard greans).
Hmong hot sauce, which is actually listed on the menu, is a must. A fiery mixture of cilantro, red Thai peppers and onions – think Mexican salsa, but superior to any Mexican salsa you’ve ever encountered. With your hands, grab a lump of sticky rice and squeeze it into a ball, then dip away in that piquant hot sauce. I’m convinced this stuff can make just about anything taste good.
Now that you know a little something about our Lao-Hmong friends - go eat like a Hmong.
Contact Tom: tom@altantacuisine.com |
