When my family first moved here from the northeast, Atlanta wasn’t much of a food town. In fact, my mother couldn’t even find the most basic of cooking essentials like olive oil. We were forced to have many culinary necessities that we originally took for granted shipped in from New York.

Atlanta has come a long way since 1974 and we now enjoy several specialty markets offering exotic estate olive oils, awe-inspiringly beautiful handmade pasta and a vast array of artisan cheeses. But the one area Atlanta has made significant culinary strides, at least in my opinion, is with its ethnic offerings. Buford Highway is not only locally celebrated but it’s nationally renowned for being one of the most prolific ethnic food corridors in America. 

 Ironically, I believe it is Indian fare that quietly shines above all in this city. I say ironically because it virtually has no presence whatsoever on Buford Highway. Instead, you will find our city’s best Indian eateries along Lawrenceville Highway in a dodgy section of Decatur. But with large Indian populations north of the city, several noteworthy Indian restaurants have popped up in Alpharetta and Norcross.

Ashiana opened with nary a whisper two years ago in the downstairs sector of Global Mall on Jimmy Carter Boulevard in Norcross. The dimly lit room has a cavernous feel yet still exudes elegance. Robust smells of curry and exotic spices waft through the dining room like a heavy spirit drifting between conversations. 

The food at this riveting Indian restaurant is about as good as it gets in Atlanta. Chicken tikka masala arrives buttery and so silky smooth you’ll wonder what you’ve been eating elsewhere.

Goat curry and lamb vindaloo both flaunt an addictive extra layer of flavor and depth not commonly found at the average Indian restaurant. Crunchy vegetable pakoras even seem to have that swagger.

When eating off the buffet, I make repeat visits solely for the velvety chicken tikka masala and hearty palak paneer (spinach and cheese dish), but fork-tender cubes of chicken tikka are a must do and ruby red knobs of charcoal-scented chicken tandoori are as fiery and flavorful as I’ve had anywhere, though both can be a little dry.

If someone put a gun to my head and told me to come up with a weakness or else, it would have to be dessert. Besides the noticeable lack of variety, fruit cocktail is sort of gluey and not in the least refreshing. You’ll have better luck with rice pudding—a solid version but nothing to write home about. You might as well skip it and fill up on thirds and fourths on the savory side.   

I wouldn’t normally recommend a trip to the Mall, but this is the Global Mall I’m talking about. Run, do not walk!