March 8-14
Inman Park Restaurant Week
Twelve of Inman Park’s best restaurants. Each restaurant will have a choice of offering a 3-course tiered menu, which will be between $15 – $35. Restaurants include The Albert, Fritti, Kevin Rathbun Steak, Parish, Park’s Edge, Sotto Sotto, Wisteria and Zaya. For additional information, please contact Clifford Bramble directly at 404.524.8280 or to see additional information, visit the website.

March 11
Share Our Strength’s Great American Bake Sale
Share Our Strength invites Atlantans to tie on their aprons and join the fun for the Great American Baking Contest on Thursday, March 11, at The Cook’s Warehouse – Midtown. The festivities will continue from 6:30 – 9pm. Great American Baking Contest general admission costs $25 per person and begins at 7:30pm. VIP admission costs $35 and includes a champagne reception at 6:30pm with Q100’s Jenn Hobby and a sampling of her own special baked treat. Tickets are also available at www.strength.org/bakingcontest.

For those who have never read my Letters From The Editor of the past will notice these aren’t the standard issue “letters from the editor” you’ll find in other publications that highlight the articles you’ll find inside the paper. Rather, these small articles — limited by print real estate — are intended to be quick “food for thought” pieces, and nothing more.

Those of you who frequent the Atlanta Cuisine website know that I’m a poll geek. Truth be told, I’d position polls more prominently on the site if it were up to me.

To Govern, Or Not To Govern
In a recent poll our readers struggled with the touchy subject of whether or not to regulate terms such as “local” and “farm-to-table.” At the end of the day, those in favor of less regulation eeked out a slim margin of victory with 50% of the vote, “yes to regulations” registered 48% while “not sure” took up the remaining 2%.

I’m not surprised that our savvy readers voted “no” to regulations, but I am shocked by how close the results. Perhaps we as a society are too quick to govern.

We the people make a habit of trying to control everything that isn’t perfect. Then it winds up in the hands of a government-like body.

Oh my! Those little imperfections suddenly don’t seem so bad now, do they?

Top Chef Popularity Contest
Last December I ran a poll asking you to vote for your favorite Atlanta Top Chef star. Richard Blais and Hector Santiago were runners up with 18% of votes going to each. Eli Kirshtein finished up the rear with a lowly 4% while Kevin Gillespie — to nobody’s surprise — was the decisive winner ringing up a whopping 60% of the vote.

I wonder if he’d score that high today, after making some unpopular comments about barbecue that didn’t sit well with some locals during a recent interview with the AJC.

What is it about barbecue that makes the gloves come off?

Is Atlanta A Top 5 Food City?
This poll will run until midnight March 10th. It’s been an interesting one to follow thus far with “no” racking up 58% of the vote. It was close till the halfway point, but there’s plenty of time to go in this one.

I’m not sure if we are top 5 material, but we can’t be too far out. Let’s see, there’s the obvious leaders: New York, San Francisco, Chicago and LA. Any clue who falls in behind the Big Four? Don’t you dare say Charleston or New Orleans, Atlanta’s food scene (ethnic et al) is not only better, but superior in comparison. Well, The Big Easy does hold its own, but Charleston, SC? Really?

Click here to see polls.

While eating at INC. Street Food (984 Canton Road, Roswell, 770.998.3114) last week, I found most dishes to be too heavily sauced and entirely too busy, a trait commonly encountered during the old school — largely French influenced — cooking of the ’80s and early ’90s.

Pork tamales (see photo below) arrive smothered in thick, though mild guajillo sauce and a crema fresca squiggly, a technique that went out of style with parachute pants. Today, the more circular dots and dollops are en vogue. The light corn flavors of the skimpy portion of actual tamales were lost in the muck.

Thickly coated Argentinian style empanadas are lost in translation underneath a heaping pile of pickled vegetables, pico de gallo, and a disturbing heavy layer of herb (their description, not mine) cream, which tasted more like a garlicky ranch than anything else.

Carnitas tacos appear to be mindlessy deep-fried and coated in flour, rendering them to dry flavorless cubes of tough pork. I prefer the tender slow braised citrus-y notes of the more traditional methods.

Despite suffering from “past due” kitchen ideology, the menu is surprisingly well thought out. I found some unique dishes not easily found here in Atlanta, even at the so-called “authentic” places.

I was happy to see Albondigas (see photo below ), a classic Mexican meatball soup. But this version lacks depth and soul.

The best dish in the house by a mile was an order of calamari rellenos (see photo at top of page), squid stuffed with rich braised oxtails and squid ink rice, topped with a tangy green mole. These were judiciously topped, the squid was tender and the playful squid ink rice was fun.

Ladies, don’t take your date here, men enjoy about a 15:1 female to male ratio. This place is an estrogen fest, it’s packed with woman drinking from the inventive margarita list while nibbling on decent food that lacks modern day finesse.

Like all great Atlanta pastry chefs, Jeffries suddenly vanished from the local food scene. But unlike the others before him, Jeffries returned to local soil last year with biscotti in hand. And just as he changed the way we looked at desserts, he’s administered a free-spirited shot in the arm of the humdrum biscotti world.

Throw everything you know about biscotti out the window. These aren’t those tooth-chipping hard bites that require a good soaking — not a quick dip — in coffee.

Jeffries produces his spruced up italian biscuits in Suwannee. They can be purchased at Whole Foods, Savvi Urban Market, The Cook’s Warehouse (Ansley Mall) and Return To Eden. Just ask for David Jeffries Kitchen biscotti.

Flavors
My favorite is the savory pear & rosemary, which starts on the tongue as an even battle between sweet and zesty, but finishes with a slightly fiery Indian red pepper singe.

A close second is the orange-spiced hazelnut, rounded in full with cardamom and real orange zest.

Also look out for the slightly salty sun dried tomato Asiago cheese and cinnamon pistachio.

Flavors change with the seasons or whenever chef is struck by a creative whim, a frequent occurrence.

Follow Jeffries on his website to keep up with flavors and places to buy his biscotti at www.davidjeffrieskitchen.com or call 404.325.5051.

March 6-14
Buckhead Restaurant Week
Buckhead’s best restaurants will each offer a $25 (excluding alcohol, tax and gratuity) per person prix-fixe, three-course menu consisting of an appetizer, a main course and a delicious dessert. Participating restaurants include Buckhead Life restaurants, MARKET, Craftbar, Home, Aja, Prime, Cantina, Capital Grille, Aqua Bistro, Gordon Biersch and Dantanna’s. A complete list of participating restaurants and their menus will be available online at www.brwatlanta.com. For more information, contact The Reynolds Group at 404.888.9348.

The concept of barrels in brewing dates back to the Middle Ages. Back then, beer was barrel-aged by necessity. Oak was most common and is today the most widely used wood for both beer and wine barrels. The advent of steel made the brewing process both cleaner and easier. Even today, the barrel is almost exclusively used outside the actual brewing process — more as a flavoring device than a true fermentation vessel. Scottish brewers, in particular Innis and Gunn, are credited for repopularizing oak barrels for flavor. The past couple of years have seen a significant number of U.S. brewers sporting wood…barrels in their beermaking operations.

The Scotch have three standout oak-aged beers that should be a part of any wood-flavored beers. The aformentioned Innis and Gunn Scotch Ale is a yardstick example of the classic Scotch Ale. It has a strong caramel malt backbone with little detectable hop profile, a beautiful wood-rounded finish. Brewdog, the three year old brewery, has a series of its Paradox Imperial Stout in various liquor casks, including Bowmore, Macallan, Glen Grant, and Speyside Whiskey. All are subtly different but share the soft oak finish and delicious taste. Perhaps my favorite, however is the Harviestoun Ola Dubh series — their Old Engine Oil in Highland Park single-malt Scotch casks of various ages. What is remarkable is the difference in taste between the base beer, the classic aggressive roasty stout, and the incredibly smooth beers that come out of the casks. They come in 12, 16, 18, 30, and 40 year-old Scotch cask varieties. The 40 year Ola Dubh is often ranked among the best beers in the world.

The rest of Europe holds their own with oak. BFM, out of Switzerland, has a series of exciting oak-aged beers, most notably his Abbaye St. Bon Chien. It has a slightly sour Flemish taste with complex malt arrangements and interesting add-on ingredients. Each year is a different recipe, down to which wine cask he ages the beer in. The brewer often changes casks mid-fermentation to adjust the flavor of the beer. The Belgian brewer Petrus also cask-ages their Pale Ale for a fresh twist on the classic style. Oak has even invaded Italy, which produces the Dolii Raptor (the barrel thief) and Panil Barrique — a Flemish sour.

Closer to home, Allagash has probably the broadest selection of oak-aged beers. For a different take, I recommend the paired set of Victor and Victoria. Both are aged in white wine casks — Chardonnay for Victoria and Sauvignon Blanc for Victor. Both will appeal to the wine-lover in your family that turns his or her nose up at beer. They also produce another of my all-time favorites: Curieux — a bourbon-aged Belgian-style Tripel. It is the beer equivalent of Bananas Foster, with fruits, caramel, spices, and bourbon swirling concert. Finally, their Interlude is aged in French Merlot barrels giving it a distinct flavor of plum and mushroom. This is one exotic and delicious brew.

Dogfishhead also does some impressive barrel-aged beers, including the Palo Santo Marron, a brown ale aged in Paraquayan hardwood. This is another roasty, malty beer with an aggressive finish of caramel and vanilla.

Weyerbacher brings us another before and after story with their Old Heathen Imperial Stout, which, after oak aging, metamorphs into Heresy. It has a remarkable smooth finish with belies its 8.2% abv, with notes of vanilla and coffee over a deep base of cocoa. They also produce Insanity, their Blithering Idiot barleywine aged in bourbon. This one is not for the faint of heart, at 11.1% abv you might get drunk just smelling this delicious concoction.

Light or dark, wine or liquor, there is probably an oak-aged beer out there that fits your palate. Next time you buy a beer, ask yourself —can I handle the wood? I know you can.

Kraig Torres is the Chief Hophead at Hop City Craft Beer and Wine, Atlanta’s only craft beer specialist. Hop City carries over 1,500 different beers, 1,000 wines and home brewing supplies. Hop City is located at 1000 Marietta St in the Brickworks complex – at the corner of Marietta St and Howell Mill Rd, next to 5 Seasons Brewery. 404-350-9998 www.HopCityBeer.com Hop City Craft Beer and Wine is proud to be Citysearch’s Best Wine Store in Atlanta for 2009.

I personally prefer to let someone else do the cooking if I’m paying.

But as most of you married guys know good and well, the wife usually gets her way. So, there we were at Buford Highway’s latest Bamboo Grill & Hot Pot (4646 Buford Highway, Atlanta Tel: 678.580.1727) — only the restaurant’s third day in business — with a yellow pot of seething liquid parked between us.

I will say Bamboo’s Vietnamese style hot pot, known as lau, is far more flavorful compared to the inferior Chinese versions I’ve eaten here in town. I also appreciate that the meat and seafood doesn’t arrive frozen. On the plate was thin strips of beef, shrimp, squid, fish and mussels.

On the veggie plate was a pile of everything from cabbage and mint and even hojiso, or tía tô as it’s called in Vietnamese. Think Japanese shiso leaf, only stronger and more fragrant.

Even though the spicy hot pot was delicious the restaurant’s signature spring roll, rem nuong cuon, was the standout dish — and possibly the best I’ve eaten anywhere in Atlanta. Layers of chargrilled pork wrapped up with mint, mango, cucumber, and pencil-shaped crispy egg roll containing crunchy “shell on” shrimp.

I was actually pleasantly surprised by my meal at Bamboo Grill & Hot Pot, so much that I won’t kick and scream when Melanie drags me for a return visit when she feels the urge to get her hot pot on.

February 25th 2010
Muss & Turner’s Beer Tasting Thursdays: Ciders, Mead, and Fruit Beers
Come learn from and taste with Jessica Moss, our resident “beer maestro,” who has an unrivaled passion for beer. You will taste at least 6 beers from each category. reservations@mussandturners.com $15 per person 6:45pm -8:00pm

February 24, 7-9pm
New Belgium Beer Dinner at Graveyard Tavern, EAV
Join the Graveyard for the February beer dinner enjoy a $39 multi-course meal paired with New Belgium beers. Chef Justin Bright is brilliant with meat! The Graveyard is open only to those with reservations during the dinner; email philip@graveyardtavern.com to reserve your seats.

February 27, 10:00 a.m.
Chinese Southern Belle Asian Market TOUR & TASTING
Curious, overwhelmed or intimidated by Asian markets? Want to learn about popular Asian produce, products and shortcut tips for making classic or creative Asian dishes at home? Enjoy new food, cultural, travel and shopping? Join us for this fun, unique, interactive culinary and cultural experience! Tour location will be at a new Asian supermarket near I-85/I-285 (specified at registration). $40/person. Discounts for Students w/valid ID and Children (w/paid adult). Visit CSB website http://www.chinesesouthernbelle.com/2010/01/asian-market-tour-saturday-feb-27/ or 800-838-3006. Tour highlights include: Fresh Asian Fruits & Vegetables, Oodles of Noodles, Mad About Rice, Some Like It Hot – Spices!, Kitchen Tools & Pantry Essentials, Hot Pot Party, Asian Snack Attack!, Food Court tasting

February 27th
ACityDiscount Opens Restaurant Equipment Showroom For Foodservice Industry & Public Access Monday To Saturday
ACityDiscount is located downtown at 1254 Murphy Ave SW, Atlanta, 30310. To launch Saturday trading, the ACityDiscount Showroom will be open on February 27 and March 6 from 9am to 4pm. From Feb 27 to March 6, mention your saw the ad on Atlanta Cuisine to receive 30% off all used restaurant equipment. Plus, gifts sets (valued up to $90) will be given to the first 5 customers making a purchase over $500 (sale amount after 30% discount) on Feb 27.

February 20th
Steamhouse Lounge 27th Annual Oysterfest
Saturday from 11am-6pm and Sunday, February 21st from 12pm-5pm. The event will take place again in Midtown on 11th Street between West Peachtree and Peachtree Walk by the Steamhouse Lounge. In addition to a million hickory grilled Louisiana Pearl Reef oysters, over 100 gallons of the award-winning Steamhouse lobster bisque, there will be plenty of Budweiser and Goombay Smash. Tickets are available at Ticket Alternative for $20 on Saturday and $10 on Sunday. A portion of proceeds will benefit Children’s Healthcare of Atlanta. For more information about the event, visit www.steamhouselounge.com

February 21
A Taste of Athens
Eat, Drink, and Help Many by attending the 17th annual A Taste of Athens. Sample over 50 local restaurants, wine and beer, enjoy live music, and bid on fabulous silent auction items. A Taste of Athens benefits Community Connection of Northeast Georgia who, for more than 25 years, has empowered our community to GET, GIVE, and GROW HELP. Click here for more info.

February 21, 7:00pm
A Fundraiser
Watershed Restaurant, 406 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur, GA 30030 Join seven of Atlanta’s favorite chefs for an intimate, family-style dinner that pays homage to food memories of the South and raises funds for Slow Food’s Terra Madre Foundation. In addition to sharing five courses of reinterpreted southern family recipes — each course inspired by a food memory from the preparing chef — guests will enjoy a word from Slow Food International Founder Carlo Petrini on the importance of Terra Madre and the future of Slow Food, plus a rare performance by Emily Saliers of the Indigo Girls. Chefs for the dinner include Billy Allin of Cakes Ale, Cathy Conway of Avalon Catering, Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill, Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene, Kevin Ouzts of The Spotted Trotter, Scott Peacock of Watershed, and Steven Satterfield of Miller Union. Tickets are $150 per person if purchased before Monday, February 15. Tickets are $175 if purchased after February 15. VIP Tickets are $250 per person and include a seat at Carlo Petrini’s table (limited availability).

Proceeds from the dinner will be donated directly to Slow Food’s Terra Madre Foundation. Click here for tickets!

Not the case with Red Eyed Mule (1405 Church Street Extension, Marietta Tel: 678.809.4546), a cheap burger and biscuit dive in Marietta. Husband and wife owners Sabra Wessel and Joseph Wood smartly jumped into the business by opening a very manageable 600-square foot space.

The menu is as tiny as the humble shoebox-like structure. Lunch only consists of 4 burger options and your choice of fries or onion rings.

Biscuits are airy, less dense versions of what I’ve become accustomed to here in the south — but insanely delicious.

Below is a close-up shot of Jake’s Big Daddy, two quarter-pound fresh ground Angus patties, a run through the garden, tangy ground beef & chorizo gravy — anointed with a fried egg and served on grilled buttery Texas Toast. This double patty beast will only set you back $6.13.

Your gently used Harley parts spend like gold here, but your credit card won’t get you anywhere.

Sabra mans the deep fryer during the onslaught lunch rush.

Check out the upcoming March issue of AC Paper for a more detailed write-up.

Visit website

Hours of operation:
6am-2pm Mon-Fri
7am-2pm Sat
Closed Sunday