During the month of February this beer is only offered at select Taco Macs around town. So, for those of you who are too cool for Taco Mac — and I know some of you are — you will be forced to wait until March to give this beer a shot.

The goal of this beer according to owner Nick Purdy and brewer Eric Johnson is to show that “light” beers can register big in the taste department.

Johnson’s use of a unique New Zealand hop called Nelson Sauvin — think sauvignon blanc — gives this brew a big fruity grape-like flavor and plenty of personality. Lemony sorachi ace hops and a little orange peel combine to add a complex citrus-y note that hangs in there all the way to the finish.

Let There Be Light is the first hoppy offering from Wild Heaven. In the past, I’ve given nods of appreciation to the guys for not playing follow-the-leader during the onslaught of IPA madness — and for brewing a seriously sexy imperial brown ale right out of the gate.

Purdy and Johnson have released only big tasty beers with lofty alcohol levels until Let There Be Light. The goal in play here is a “sessionable,” lower alcohol brew. I believe they achieved this for the most part — this beer is bursting with big beer flavor without having to flex high gravity muscle.

All in all, another nice local brew from our friends at Wild Heaven.

Stats:
Strength: 4.7% abv
Style: American Ale
Serve In: Pint Glass

Our rating system ranges from 0 to 5 stars.
0 Stars: tastes like bad homebrew
1 Star: tastes like mediocre homebrew
2 Stars: tastes like good homebrew
3 Stars: Nice beer
3.5 Stars: Great beer
4 Stars: Amazing beer
4.5 Stars: Just shy of perfect
5 Stars: Excellence, among the best beers of this style

The purpose of this article is to make you aware that when a company chooses to experiment with genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in the real world, as opposed to a controlled environment, that unexpected consequences can have irreversible real world repercussions. The social irresponsibility of that choice is everyone’s concern.

Monsanto is currently petitioning the USDA to approve the use of a 2,4-D resistant corn genetically modified by Dow Chemical. 2,4-D is the primary ingredient in Agent Orange. Despite the fact that Agent Orange was the horrific chemical weapon used to destroy foliage and poison North Vietnamese soldiers, and that it caused severe and prolonged consequences for the environment, ecology, and health of the people of Vietnam, Monsanto thinks it would be just fine to spray on America’s cornfields.

The new corn would be immune to 2,4-D. It would still grow in the newly poisoned fields since the 2,4-D would be absorbed straight into the structure of the new corn ready to be chemically released upon consumption. Obviously Monsanto is in the food productivity business — to hell with food safety — apparently that is someone else’s problem.

According to Phil Angell, the director of corporate communications at Monsanto: “Monsanto should not have to vouchsafe the safety of biotech food. Our interest is in selling as much of it as possible.”

It is only a little herbicide. Ignore the cancerous veterans. Sure, the use of such chemicals on civilian targets is a violation of the 1907 Hague Convention and both the 1927 and 1949 Geneva Conventions, but Monsanto isn’t advocating spraying anyone outright – just our nation’s farmlands and a primary food source. Isn’t that the whole purpose of having their little “time bomb” corn seeds immune anyway?

Research by the EPA found that birth defects have been 60-90% higher in counties with higher rates of 2,4-D applications to farm fields. In addition to birth defects affecting the respiratory and circulatory systems, 2,4-D has also been linked to a marked increase of such musculoskeletal defects such as clubfoot, fused digits and extra digits.

2,4-D contains dioxins and is part of a group of extremely toxic chemicals known as the dirty dozen already identified as persistent organic pollutants. In humans and other mammals 2,4-D depletes the body of ATP (a primary energy molecule) and has been linked to Non Hodgkins Lymphoma. As a primary ingredient in livestock feed, the implications of using 2,4-D infected corn are disturbing. A chemical bleed into the nation’s livestock feed is unavoidable. Do you really want your steak or pork chop laced with a carcinogenic poison? Or did you really think that third drumstick on your chicken was a bonus?

2,4-D is an herbicide. It is a poison. It was a weapon of war used to purposefully destroy both the environment and the people in it. Now it is about to be in your food. How can this possibly be a good idea?

As Dave Larkworthy, the local chef/owner of Five Seasons Brewing, pointed out: “You simply can’t control the contents of other foods once GMOs are introduced into the food chain. If I am going to be providing food for people I don’t want to provide food that isn’t wholesome.” Since most GMO food isn’t labeled as such, Larkworthy points out the importance of both knowing your food sources and in dealing with local purveyors who share a common concern about producing quality foods.

The upcoming USDA decision on “Agent Orange Corn” will be final BUT you can still voice your objection. Act now! We have until February 27th to try and convince the USDA not to approve the new 2,4-D tolerant corn.

Help stop the further poisoning of our food supply!
Go to: http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_24592.cfm to learn more.

The owner was a man by the name of Nick Caliendo (Nicky), a local fishmonger who began his successful run in the fish business back in 1984 at the age of twenty-six.

What few people knew was that Nicky was the longtime owner of a place called Nicky’s Seafood (609 Whitehall Street, Atlanta Tel: 404.588.3474) in downtown Atlanta near Morehouse College. He had sold the restaurant many years ago.

But as fate would have it, Nicky re-purchased the business about a year ago and is up to his old tricks, only this time he’s doing it in the hood. A quality jumbo shrimp po’boy has all the makings to be a great one, but the bread is too squishy. A truly great po’boy has crunchy bread with only enough chew to hold the shrimp.

Crab dip ($2.50 for a large) is a generous portion for the price and loaded with big chunks of meat with a nice little kick on the back — so worth the drive all by itself. Seriously.

When it’s cold, you either sit to the left in a small dining area or the front where people place their orders. I sit in the front so I can watch over my car to make sure it isn’t jacked while I eat.

But Terenzi’s stint as brewmaster at the popular Inman Park brewpub came to an abrupt end early November after being arrested by Dekalb County police.

Owner and longtime homebrewer, Bob Sandage, immediately announced on a neighborhood message board that he would assume the position of brewmaster — and he has. In fact, his first two beers are now on tap.

Colin’s Wee Heavy Scotch Ale is a full kilt kicking 8.5% abv, named after Sandage’s oldest son and is the first to pour. When he announced this beer’s release on the brewpub’s Facebook Page, he admitted this is his big leap from homebrewer to pro-brewer. And that transition is no easy task.

That being said, I am hoping this first attempt at pro-brew is nothing more than first-time jitters. The murky dark pour is somewhat thin and practically non-descript in flavor. I say practically because somewhere around mid point, a faint peaty, cloying sweetness manages to break through and stay with me until near finish, before the beer kindly shows an act of mercy by dissipating to shear nothingness again. Oy.

I prefer a chewier, more viscous Wee Heavy Scotch Ale.

On a better note, Sandage’s second beer, Nathan’s 13 Minute Amber, named after his second son, proved to be a far better effort and more along the lines of what I expect from a true pro-brewer.

A clever west coast Amber, this beer’s not nearly the hop assault the aroma suggests. And you better watch out, at 7.4% abv — a little high for this style — it’s an easy drinker.

With only 13% of the hops used in more than 13% of total boil time, this one leaves you with an intensely fresh floral hop flavor without the harsh bitterness. And the big caramel malt backbone really rounds things out. I must say, a very nice brew.

At the end of the day I came with the notion that Sandage is certainly clever and creative, but only time will tell if he has the deft brewing hand this brewpub so desperately needs after a shaky start under Chris Terenzi.

Colin’s Wee Heavy Scotch Ale

Stats:
Strength: 8.5% abv
Style: Scotch Ale/Wee Heavy
Serve In: Tulip, Snifter

Nathan’s 13 Minute Amber

Stats:
Strength: 7.4% abv
Style: American Amber Ale
Serve In: Pint Glass

The menu is mix of Mexican and South American fare.

I quickly started things off with green posole since it was highly touted by several people online, and posole of any kind just so happens to be one of my favorite Mexican dishes. And I must say, this version is quite good — not bland in the least. My biggest complaint is the fact that they don’t use hominy, which lends a chewy, almost hard bite, a much-needed texture in my opinion. This was the best dish of the day.

Next arrived a dish called El Macho, which was also played up on the Internet by happy fans of the restaurant. It’s a big plate of pulled braised pork chunks tossed with beans, mangos and leafy stuff, covered with a sweet plantain cut long ways. A citrusy vinaigrette brings it all together.

Tacos are less impressive, even though you will find some interesting options such as Al Pastor among the gringo (the menu’s wording, not mine) options.

Problem is, the al pastor doesn’t pack nearly the punch of the far better versions down the road in all those hole-in-the-wall taquerias that scare away most AlphaRoswellians.

Queso fundido is decent, but I prefer a spicier chorizo and a stringier cheese that isn’t so fluffy.

All in all, it wasn’t a bad experience. All dishes are at the very least good, though not great.

Will I come running back? No.

If in the area and wanting green posole would I stop in? Probably.

“This used to be that deli you liked.” Melanie said with part of a plantain dribbling down her chin.

“Ah! Meyer’s Deli,” I responded. “That’s why I have a sudden urge for pastrami on rye.”


Dempsey currently contract brews through Thomas Creek Brewery out of South Carolina.

His latest stab at pro-brew is a silky Russian Imperial Stout he calls Your Black Heart. This latest effort is safely played, much like his previous offerings. And I’m willing to bet Dempsey probably receives a lot of gripes for being too safe, as he seems to be a true-to-style kind of brewer, at least in the early going. Which is actually okay by me. I prefer getting to know a brewer before seeing his kinky side.

There’s plenty hop bitterness to offset all those malts in this not-so-big Imperial stout that weighs in at a modest 8% abv.

Aroma and flavor are coffee, chocolate, somewhat bready with a lingering bitter finish.

My biggest lament about this beer is mouthfeel. What I like most about Russian Imperial stouts is that they are big creamy beers. This one has its silky moments but a weird sharp carbonation peeks through from time to time, making it just tad thin for this style.

Other than that, the flavors are cohesive and spot-on. It drinks like a pro despite the obvious lack of inventiveness.

Unlike some, I will grit and bear one or two more conservative attempts from Dempsey before I start calling for something a little more daring. Take a chance, Dempsey. Who knows, you might just shock yourself.

Stats:
Strength: 8% abv
Style: Russian Imperial Stout
Serve In: Snifter

January 11 – Allagash Takeover at Thinking Man Tavern
Your typical tap takeover wouldn’t generally make our list of major events, but then an Allagash takeover isn’t your typical takeover. The boys at Thinking Man Tavern have an amazing arsenal of Allagash kegs including Thing 1 and Thing 2 along with just about everything great from Allagash. Rumor has it Rob Tod (founder) will be there in person. If you can’t make Wednesday evening many of these rare beers could be available for several days. A must!

January 21 – Buckhead Beer Fest
This event will take place on a Saturday afternoon in the parking lot of the Gold Room at Lindbergh City Center from 1-6pm. Tickets are $35 a piece.
http://buckheadbeerfest.com/

January 28 – Atlanta Winter Beer Fest
This one takes place at Masquerade 3-8pm on a Saturday. Tickets are $35 per person, but if you use promo code “foodbeer” while making your purchase you will receive $5 off.
http://atlantawinterbeerfest.com/

February 11 – Winter Beer Carnival
This big Atlantic Station beer festival takes place only days before Valentine’s Day and will feature many mega and micro brews alike, over 100 different beers to sample. Tickets are 40 per person for general admission.
http://www.winterbeercarnival.com/

Bob Sandage, along with wife Kristine, just opened Wrecking Bar Brewpub (292 Moreland Ave, NE, Inman Park, 404.221.2600) this past summer.

Brewer Chris Terenzi was the brewpub’s brewmaster until he ran into legal trouble last month and was taken into police custody. Terenzi was set free on bail pending his day in court.

Sandage immediately announced that he would take over as brewmaster, admitting he is taking the big step from homebrewer to professional brewer. His first beer, Colin’s Wee Heavy, a malty scotch ale named after his oldest child, is now pouring at the popular Inman Park brewpub.

Terenzi’s beer list sported a heavy slant towards IPAs. Sandage claims he plans to be balanced by brewing more in the way of malty beers to better please a variety of beer drinkers.

“I also hope do more barrel aging, perhaps with rum barrels,” says Sandage.

He also drives home the notion that this isn’t a temporary decision — Sandage plans to hold the brewmaster position at the brewpub for a very long time.

Many, myself included, didn’t care much for Terenzi’s style of brewing, so the idea of a new brewmaster, even this early in the game, is seen as a refreshing change.

Hopefully, Sandage can settle in quickly and get the beer program on the right track.

This news came just weeks before Twain’s in Decatur announced that David Stein had replaced Jordan Fleetwood as brewmaster. See full story here.

The bottom line is this; two of our city’s four major brewpub brewers were replaced in a span of three weeks.

Think of it as you would the weather here in Georgia. If you don’t like the beer being poured right now, wait a few minutes.

The young brewer doesn’t come with a long impressive resume. “Up to this point, I’ve never brewed the same beer recipe twice.” Claims Stein.

He is, however, a forward thinker and every bit as creative as any American craft brewer seems to be these days.

“In general, I brew to achieve a bright, exciting beer that is balanced and drinkable, says Stein, “emphasis on exciting — I don’t agree with making boring beer.”

To give you an idea of his approach, Stein once brewed a Saison with Sweet Tarts candy.

Owners Uri and Ethan Wurtzel have been busy with changes at the brewpub over the past year, bringing in a new chef and brewer.

“David [Stein] comes in with fresh perspective,” says Ethan, “his motivation to produce robust flavors in sessionable beers, specifically his IPAs, is going to be appreciated.”

The brewpub is growing, too. Ethan is happy to announce that the brewpub will be expanding capacity by year’s end by bringing in two 15-barrel fermentation vessels.

And since Twain’s has a distribution contract with Savannah Distributing Co., Stein hopes to brew in collaboration with chefs around town.

Stein’s beers should be pouring by mid January. He plans to kick things off with an IPA and Imperial Stout.

Intown dwellers may snub their noses at the suburban zip code, but Seed’s got serious game — so much so, I believe it should be considered a destination restaurant, worthy of a drive from anywhere in the city.

Owner/chef Doug Turbush is sourcing ingredients and cooking like there’s no tomorrow, East Cobb, best known for beautiful women — not its dining scene — has never seen a restaurant of this caliber, or anything close.

During a recent lunch outing we enjoyed a sweet bowl of braised onion soup taken to the next level by thin, casually strewn Gruyere crisps that soak up all that glorious sweetness while lending that necessary nuttiness.

The menu isn’t vast or over the top, it’s just extremely well-executed to the point I can’t help but notice. Chicken schnitzel arrives juicy — not dry — resting in a puddle of miso mustard that harmoniously bridges the gap between protein and garnish, in this case — arugula salad and fire-roasted tomatoes. Citrusy notes of lemon pull it all together.

Prices here are surprisingly inexpensive taking quality into consideration. A $10 plump shrimp po’boy comes with crispy fries. The sandwich is dripping with a lively chili mayo and butter lettuce — it’s a steal.

Melanie pointed out that I was one of only three male patrons. The large dining room didn’t have a single seat available. What can I say? I love East Cobb.

The drink program is equally impressive, rivaling any I’ve seen in the city. Even the beer list is strong, though this crowd seems more like the wine and cocktail type.

Service isn’t something I typically mention in my write-ups but our service was flawless and worthy of a mention. Our server was funny, knowledgeable and possessed that uncanny ability to be there only when needed. A real pro.

Cliff Bostock would have no problem anointing him waitron of the week.