Remember the eccentric David Jeffries, former pastry chef of Park 75? Jeffries was most known for his kinky flavor combinations, exotic ingredients and extreme presentations. He once served a dramatic elongated, thin cylindrical limoncello creation that sprung from the plate like a rocket, arching up and over the rim some 2 feet in the air. All its glorious decadence aside, the spectacle alone was a fascinating defiance of gravity.
Like all great Atlanta pastry chefs, Jeffries suddenly vanished from the local food scene. But unlike the others before him, Jeffries returned to local soil last year with biscotti in hand. And just as he changed the way we looked at desserts, he’s administered a free-spirited shot in the arm of the humdrum biscotti world.
Throw everything you know about biscotti out the window. These aren’t those tooth-chipping hard bites that require a good soaking — not a quick dip — in coffee.
Jeffries produces his spruced up italian biscuits in Suwannee. They can be purchased at Whole Foods, Savvi Urban Market, The Cook’s Warehouse (Ansley Mall) and Return To Eden. Just ask for David Jeffries Kitchen biscotti.
My favorite is the savory pear & rosemary, which starts on the tongue as an even battle between sweet and zesty, but finishes with a slightly fiery Indian red pepper singe.
A close second is the orange-spiced hazelnut, rounded in full with cardamom and real orange zest.
Also look out for the slightly salty sun dried tomato Asiago cheese and cinnamon pistachio.
Flavors change with the seasons or whenever chef is struck by a creative whim, a frequent occurrence.
Follow Jeffries on his website to keep up with flavors and places to buy his biscotti at www.davidjeffrieskitchen.com or call 404.325.5051.