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By Tom Maicon
Q & A:
Being a Soto disciple, can you describe to us what it was like working
under such an intense individual?
Basically, he doesn't teach and same as other Japanese
chefs. Most Japanese chefs are like him, kind of short-tempered.
It is beyond chef, it is almost artist world. They like 100%
of perfect job. They don't like 0.01% of lack. Soto is very
nice when he is out of job.
He changes his mind when he works. I'm same. The God doesn't give more
than 2 talents for each person. Soto is an excellent chef but doesn't
have management ability. If I say something to him, be an adult, behave
like adult.
We’ve heard all kinds of bizarre stories from Soto’s
customers, but what’s the craziest thing you’ve ever
seen him (Soto) do on the job?
I didn't see much when I worked with him. He was not
as bad about 10 yrs. ago. His mental condition is getting worse
- always breaking dishes, and sometimes fighting with customers.
He never worked in American restaurants and doesn’t know
how to deal with American customers. I am lucky because I worked
with Pano about 2 yrs. What I learn from him was restaurant
is not a food industry, is service industry. The customer pay
and they should be treated as king and queen.
Not only do you run your restaurant but you also operate
this city’s most popular Japanese newspaper. How do you
manage to find the time to run a restaurant and a newspaper
simultaneously?
It is easy. I don't have 2 restaurants. I have 2 different
companies. Newspaper is once a month and write stock articles
everyday. I don't feel much stress from newspaper business.
One reason is I don't face the reader and I feel like I'm helping
Japanese community. Basically, I write the articles at mid
night or in the morning when I face the dead line at the end
of month, I work a little bit harder.
How big of a difference do you notice in the sushi being
served here in Atlanta compared to the sushi in Japan?
Not only sushi, authentic Japanese is old fashion. It
is in like Nobu in Tokyo and spicy tuna is also popular. But
this is only for young and middle generations. For older people,
sushi means authentic sushi like, nigiri sushi, no rolls and
sushi are not spicy food. I don't mind American style sushi
but Americans should know what is sushi. I hate to see some
customer use a lot of soy sauce and wasabi or spicy sauce.
That's not sushi. They are soy sauce flavor food or just spicy
junk food. Americans need to respect other food cultures. Some
are very good, maybe 30% of Americans.
You have very limited seating at your sushi bar, which is
unfortunate because most avid sushi eaters prefer to sit at
the bar. Have you ever considered renovating the space to fit
more seats at the sushi bar?
For me, seating sushi bar is not much important. From
my view, I can see 90% of customers and understand what they
eat. That's I feel more comfortable. I cannot say, "IS
everything all right with you?" to all customers but I
can see and feel it. So, I don't mind. If I open the next one,
I expand 10 or so.
Your plate presentation (artistry) is among the best in
Atlanta, how big of a role do you believe aesthetics plays
in Japanese cuisine?
I used designed pumps, women's shoe and my food design
comes from there. I think all foods are same. The first thing
is watching (looking good), and second thing eating (tasty).
Food has 2 enjoyable parts. For me, I like colorful design
and try to make such a kind of dish. Most of chefs go to cooking
school and learn something from it. I had 10 yrs. of fashion
industry experience, so I have a different sense and talent
that I believe.
With Soto switching over to a fixed price menu, do you think
you’ll see an increase of traffic from folks who want
to order their favorite sushi?
Yes. Our business is getting better, and I try to respond
to their demand. I buy more fresh fish or shellfish, something
new from Japan.
You are known for being obsessed with Toro, hence your tuna
email club in which I am a member. Where were you served the
best Toro you’ve ever eaten? What part of the world did
it come from and what made it so spectacular?
I cannot say when I ate the best toro. But I can say
September-October's Boston blue fin. This is the best of the
year. Tuna is moving around with ocean current. They go up
around Boston from the end of August -October. Around Boston,
cold current and warm current hit and have lot plankton. Many
small fishes come and gather to eat plankton and tuna come
to eat small fishes and get fat, and then can make good toro.
That's why Boston's toro is the best of the year in the USA.
Thanks for taking the time to do this and for speaking so candidly,
Taka.
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