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“ Hush, hush,” these are the comforting words heard
from your mother as a child to soothe a hurt knee, a broken heart. There
are times as an adult
when you still seek that type of solace. Someone to coddle you, calm your harried
psyche. These are the days to head to Sotto Sotto.
This bastion of Italian comfort food has matured from a chic scenester
to a loyal inamorato to which you can always turn. The deafening din
of its neophyte days are but a memory, replaced by a spot where you can
speak to your dinner companion and not have to raise your voice. This
is intimate dining at its authentic European best.
Its chef/owner, Riccardo Ullio, still fills his outpost, but these days
you see patrons who are there to truly appreciate his homespun inspired
cuisine, as opposed to the Buckhead Betties who are looking for the next
best backdrop to show off for their newest Blahniks. The menu still holds
seasonal surprises, but the old, comforting standards remain, like an
old friend after a trying day.
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Q & A:
You moved to Conyers from your Italian hometown of Trezanno Sul Naviglio
at the age of 12. What kind of transition was it for you to move from
Italy to the United States?
I hated it, it was terrible. In Italy all the houses
are so close together and I had all my friends. You would
be able to meet after school everyday and ride our bikes,
and we had our parties. It was a lot of fun. I don’t
think there is anyplace better to be a child than Italy.
Coming over here to Conyers you have to ride your bike
a mile to get to anybody else’s house. I really didn’t
like it.
Was it hard to make the adjustment when you went to
school? Not only are you the new kid, you are the new kid
from Italy.
It wasn’t so bad. Everybody was into it. They
all wanted to know the cuss words in Italian. So that wasn’t
too bad.
Did you learn to cook from your mom, your grandmother?
I got interested in it in college and started teaching
myself.
Where did you go to college?
Georgia Tech
How did you move to the next level?
I opened up Pasta da Pulcinella and ended up in
the kitchen by default. So, I started cooking there. After
that, I left and went to work around town in different
restaurants. Pricci, Coco Pazzo. And then we opened Fritti
and Sotto Sotto.
Most restaurateurs would have their hands full opening
one restaurant. Why open two at the same time?
We had an opportunity here. The real estate became
available right next to Sotto Sotto. The owner offered
it to me. I always wanted to do a pizzeria and so I thought
it would be a good opportunity.
You continue to be on every Atlanta’s food critics’ Top
10 list. How do you stay on top year after year?
We run an efficient shop. We run a good business.
I treat my employees well, pay them well. We try to keep
everthing simple.
Any great influences for you as a chef?
No, I cook Italian food. I cook Italian food as
I know it to be. My influences are just the food I remember
eating as I grew up and the flavors I know. The food I
eat when I go back, you know, in restaurants and homes.
Those are my influences. That’s what I do, I make
Italian food.
Is there a kitchen gadget you can’t do without?
My pasta machine, we couldn’t do without that.
It’s imported from Italy.
Any ingredient you can’t do without?
Hmm. That’s a hard one. I guess flour.
Do you use the “00” flour from Italy?
No, we use American flour. The Italian flour is
too hard to import and the Americans make a really good
flour. 00 is just a grinding of the flour. American flours
are not graded like European flours. As long as you get
a really fine flour, that will work.
And you use the American flour for both the pasta and
the pizza?
Yes.
Is there any type of food that you import for the restaurant?
Yes, we import almost everything. The cheeses, all the ingredients.
As many ingredients as we can import, we do. Sometimes you can get
some specialty produce, like zucchini blossoms, some porcini mushrooms.
But obviously, produce is very hard to import.
Do you import ingredients because they aren’t as good as inside
the United States?
Absolutely. It’s just better quality. In Europe the farms
aren’t as large. American produce for the most part isn’t
good. There are some small farms that produce good produce here, but
for the most part, commercial produce is just not high quality.
What has been the biggest challenge in your career to date?
Dealing with this damn neighborhood association. We had to fight
for permits and it has been a hassle. It’s not all of them, but
that has been my biggest challenge.
If you could choose, what would be your last meal?
Some homemade bread and some salami from Salumeria Manin in
Mombello Monferrato and a bottle of Barbera Vivace.
Risotto ai Frutti di Mare
Makes 2 servings Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time:
40-50 minutes
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1/4 cup diced yellow onion
1 cup Carnaroli or Arborio rice
1/4 cup white wine
6 to 8 cups mixed fish and chicken stock, warmed
3/4 pound mixed shellfish (large shrimp, bay scallops, clams, mussels,
calamari)
1/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper
In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add
the onion and sauté until translucent. Add the rice and sauté for
2 minutes. Add wine and cook until most of it evaporates. From this
point on, the risotto should be stirred frequently so that it will
not stick. Add stock, 1 cup at a time, and cook until most of the broth
evaporates. Continue to add stock, when needed, 1 cup at a time, until
the rice is cooked but still al dente. About 5 minutes before risotto
is ready, in a separate pan add 1/4 cup stock. Add the clams, cover
and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mussels and cook 1 minute. Add
the calamari, shrimp and scallops. Cover and cook the seafood until
almost done (shells should just be opened).
When the risotto has the right texture, add the remaining tablespoon
butter, cream and any juice from the seafood. Season with salt and
pepper. Pour risotto in a bowl, top with seafood and serve immediately.
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