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Michael Tuohy,
the chef-owner of Woodfire Grill, is currently on a roll.
After just being named one of Wine Spectators favorite
Atlanta restaurants and then Gourmet magazine, he also just
gets three stars from the AJC. Most importantly though, Tom
Maicon, of our own Atlanta Cuisine, has raised it to third
best restaurant in Atlanta. I went to interview Michael to
find out what gets him going in the kitchen.
Michael has been working in kitchens since age 15, and
is originally from San Francisco. After his culinary degree
he worked for the famed
chef Joyce Goldstein ( Author of Mediterranean the Beautiful, Back
to Square One, and most recently Solo Suppers). At age 24 he was offered
the chance to come to Atlanta and open Chefs Café. Here
he was one of the first chefs in Atlanta to focus on local and organic
produce and worked closely with farmers. Just over a year ago he opened
Woodfire Grill, where he continues his seasonally focused cuisine.
I caught up with him at the end of a Saturday night and he seems both
exhausted and happy.
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Q & A:
Michael, what is the reason you became a chef?
Ive always loved food but I guess a lot of my
family were involved in it and both my parents cooked a lot.
My cousin is also a chef ( note: Mark Miller from Coyote Café ),
but really I just loved working with food
What gives you inspiration?
Great ingredients, and enthusiastic cooks (as his sous
chef Michael Schardan walks over to ask about ordering for
Monday). Yeh, great ingredients, Im the first one to
get excited when I see a great new product.
Favorite recipe from your childhood?
Well I really liked my Mums spaghetti sauce, lots of
slow simmered peppers, mushrooms. But probably her Sauerbraten,
a slow simmered beef dish with a thick sauce. In fact Ive
never even tried to make it.
What would be your signature dish?
Tough question, at Chefs Café it would have been
the crab cakes. At Woodfire, (pauses) oh has to be Rocky the
whole roasted chicken in the wood oven. Especially with the
pommes frites and greens.
What is your favorite style of cookery?
My own, no really, honest simple cooking does it for
me.
Cooking: Art, Craft or Science?
Definitely craft, Im not a big fan of the scientific
approach and I think you have to have a craftsmans approach
to your work.
5 ingredients if you were stuck on a desert island?
Well Id have to have champagne, a bottle of Nicolas
Feuillatte Palme dOr would do. Then lamb chops, I love
lamb chops. Some really good mushrooms, whatever kind is fine.
Some great cheese and good bread. Is that five? Okay scrap
bread, I need to have some olive oil and I think I can get
the salt from the sea
Best chef in Atlanta? World?
Ooh, tough question. Atlanta? Well I guess Guenter Seeger
for technique but then both Bruno (Menard) and Joel (Antunes)
are up there as well. But Ill go with Guenter, hes
phenomenal. The world would be Alain Ducasse, just for the
purity, technique and ingredients he uses.
Most memorable meal?
Louis XV (Alain Ducasse in Monaco). The room alone
was incredible but the service was phenomenal. They brought
a stand for my camera. Every detail is taken care of. The food,
the herbal infusions, the cheeses were great as well. Actually
Daniel in New York comes a close second. For a non-fine dining
experience definitely the roast suckling pig I had in Mealhada,
Portugal with fried potatoes and a salad. Perfect, simple food.
The first memorable meal you made?
Dungeness crab legs and abalone sautéed with
lemon and garlic for my parents
Best restaurant in Atlanta? World ?
Woodfire Grill and Louis XV
What is your favorite cookbook/s?
It would be between Chez Panisse Cooking,
with Paul Bertolli, and Joyce Goldsteins Mediterranean
the Beautiful
Pet peeve when dining out?
Bad service, no actually bad ingredients. That really
gets me when I know what theyre serving me and then I
find out what Im paying for it.
Favorite winemaker/vineyard?
What wine styles go best with your food?Domaine Tempier
Bandol probably although I love Rhone, Alsace and Provencal
wines. The new world intrigues me as well.
Kitchen horror story? Worst food disaster?
Probably the time one of my chefs sliced the tip of
his finger off and I rushed him to the hospital. We got there
and the doctor asked where the tip was. I didnt have
it so I had to rush back to the restaurant and there it was
still stuck to his knife. They sewed it back on though. Food
disaster would be the incineration of twelve lamb legs on the
wood grill rotisserie. Just too much fat dripping down and
the whole thing was a wall of flame. We had to open for Saturday
night too, the firemen were upset that we had to through the
legs out but they were covered in chemicals.
To garnish or not to garnish? How important is presentation
vs. taste?
Well your plates have to look clean and good but flavour
is everything. I dont want to see squiggles or tree branches
on my plate. No confetti either.
Best trend in food? Trend youd like to see less of?
Best trend is organics. Worst is the science project
food, just too experimental to taste good
What is your favorite thing to cook at home?
Lamb chops on the grill with grilled vegetable ratatouille
and some fig balsamic. And Ill need a big spicy red wine
with it. Although Im going to Canoe for brunch tomorrow.
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