|
Q & A by
Tom Maicon with a little help from Mike Stock:
1. If its a brew house then it cant have good food. How
difficult has it been to overcome this stigma?
Answer: 5 Seasons Brewing Company is, unfortunately,
quite unique. For a number of reasons (alcohol prohibition,
commercial agriculture, processed foods, to name a few) America
has been plagued by some pretty poor incarnations of restaurant
/ brewery combinations. Due to the high cost of brewing equipment
and the resources required to run a brewery and restaurant
simultaneously, larger companies often own these operations.
Consequently, most people in the States have come to assume:
if you make your own beer then probably the food will be poor
quality "pub fare," and sometimes the beer will be
second rate, too.
When Dennis Lange and I planned The 5, our
vision was to have a non-pretentious restaurant / brewery offering
hand-crafted foods and brews based upon using only the finest
seasonal ingredients. In our world, handcrafted beer and food
based on using natural ingredients picked at the peak of their
flavor and prepared carefully made perfect sense.
At first, more people were skeptical about that concept than
we expected. My partner and I were able to change their minds
by having them sit
at our tables and at our bar to experience the difference for
themselves. Fortunately, our early guests returned frequently and
most are still regular customers. They were instrumental in helping
us promote our vision by bringing their friends who also loved enjoying
fresh food and high quality, hand-crafted beer served in an
atmosphere where they felt comfortable. Despite the challenges, word-of-mouth
has spread and 5 Seasons has steadily grown.
2. Speaking of challenges, how challenging do you find it as an organic-inspired
chef to create a menu based around beer?
Answer: That is the easy part. When you source the quality
ingredients often grown here in Georgia it is fairly
simple to pair them with our seasonal beers. It has been said that
there are roughly 300 discernable flavors in a glass of wine as opposed
to more than 2000 in a handcrafted beer. As a result, the successful
pairing of beer and food is nowhere near as difficult as great food
and wine combinations. Don't get me wrong if you are not careful,
you still can have flavors that either conflict or overwhelm but the
odds are in your favor when pairing any food with one or more of the
many styles of beer.
3. Who was, or is, the greatest influence on you as a chef?
Answer: I have gained so much from so many sources it is
difficult for me to pinpoint my single greatest influence. To pick
a few, I would have to say: my father, John Larkworthy, along with
Thomas Keller and Julia Child. My dad was one of the pioneer chefs
supporting organic principles long before they became fashionable.
I learned, as I worked, beside him in our small family restaurant.
4. How involved are you with the local organic farming community? And,
how important is that relationship?
Answer: I have always believed in supporting local farmers.
For example, a wonderful byproduct of brewing is spent grain which
we supply to some organic farms in the Atlanta area for use as composting
or as feed for organically raised animals. The local organic farmers
appreciate our contribution and have reciprocated by strongly backing
our kitchen on the supply side creating a cycle. This, and the
fact that many farmers love a good beer, has made our mutually supportive
relationship, along with our regulars, become a growing and strengthening
community. Everyone benefits: the farmers, the regular families, and
5 Seasons. Its a unique and exciting, good thing.
5. If you could build a super 5 Seasons, where would it be and what
would you change?
Answer: Today we are pleased to be one-of-its-kind in the
Southeast. However if we were to do a Super 5 I think we
would have to locate it in New York or Napa Valley. Both regions enjoy
ready access to ingredients as well as the type of people who appreciate
our approach. As for changes, I would want more abundant natural light
in our kitchen and dining rooms, a larger garden than we have now,
and an expanded cellar area to store our bottle-conditioned beers.
6. Do you think the small plates craze is over? And what
will/could replace it?
Answer: To be sure, the small plate fad of the last few
years will be eclipsed by the next trend but I feel strongly that having
a choice of a variety of smaller portions of more intensely focused
flavors will have an increasingly important place in the food world.
7. Any chance well see 5 Seasons offering any of their beer bottled
for sale in Georgia?
Answer: At this time, the laws in Georgia prevent us from
having a restaurant where we serve food and sell bottles off premises.
We are trying to change things, because obviously, it is very silly
law.
8. One more before I let you go, what can we expect from 5 Seasons
Brewing in the near future?
Answer: On the food front: we will soon position Georgia
organic Black Pig (or "Kurobuta" pork) on the menu. Our farmer
friends, Wes and Charlotte Swancy from Riverview Farms, have promised
us the first available in Georgia and we are extremely excited
about it. We are hoping to have one by Fathers Day. In beer land:
we have a Barley Wine aging for the holiday season and our Double,
Triple and Brune are all coming on tap in the next quarter. With Crawford
Moran from Atlantas Dogwood Brewing Company, we recently brewed "Quintessence," which
will be cask-conditioned for the next 3 or 4 months. It has 5 malts,
5 hops, aged 5 months ... well, you get the idea, and it should be
delicious we can hardly wait for it to come of age.
Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule for us, Dave. It's
been a pleasure.
|