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Besides, numerous television appearances, and too many awards to mention,
Rathbun worked under famed chefs, such as, Bradley Ogden (American
Restaurant, Kansas City), Stephen Pyles (Baby Routh, Dallas) and
Emeril Lagasse (Commander's Palace, New Orleans).
It was Pano Karratosses who brought Rathbun to Atlanta, and it was
Buckhead Life's Southwestern concept; Nava, that was his first of many
great achievements with Atlanta's most powerful and well-known independent
restaurant group (Buckhead Life Restaurant Group). His last four years
at Buckhead Life Restaurant Group were spent as Corporate Executive
Chef.
I will admit, before meeting Rathbun, I imagined him to sport an ego
the size of North America. He's certainly earned the right to do so.
However, I will say, I was pleasantly surprised to discover he was
extremely down to earth, a fun person to be around and an all around
class act. I wish him all the best on his new venture, Rathbun's, expected
to open later this month.
Q&A with Kevin Rathbun
You have worked under Emeril Legasse at Commanders Palace in New
Orleans. We’ve all seen the television Emeril, but what’s
it like to work with the ‘real’ Emeril in a real kitchen
setting?
Working under Emeril was a great experience, Emeril was a huge influence
in the way he nurtured and elevated his people, and his constant goal
at that time was communication from the bottom up. He taught his management
team to be organized, efficient and most of all to communicate.
The Brennan family shared the largest influence I took away from Emeril,
and that was the southern hospitality…. he was and is still an
incredible schmoozer, but the Brennan way always came from the heart.
They taught people the passion of food and everyone walked away with
a little, even if they didn’t try. The Brennan family promoted
heavily from within and Emeril has that same theory today. The GM at
Emeril’s in Atlanta was a floor mgr at Commander’s Palace
when I was there 18 years ago, and has worked for Emeril since. In
the end it’s all about the people that make good restaurants.
You’ve worked with many well-known chefs including Chef Stephen
Pyles at Baby Routh in Dallas, as well as, the famed Emeril Legasse.
How did each influence you?
Stephen Plyes and John Dayton were yet again quality, cutting edge
and hospitality focused. There efforts to charity were overwhelming
and there attention to detail was again a large influence. I can tell
you that Baby Routh was a place I’ll never forget; at 23 years
of age I was offered the Chef’s position. For 7 years I had a
painters palate of foods and culture put in front of me that was second
to none. Stephen’s willingness to give to charity was a major
influence on me, and to this day I still share that willingness to
give back.
Pano Karratosses was another influence in my career. He, unlike the
others didn’t have a big check nor did he have a huge company
behind him when he started in Atlanta 25 years ago. His experience
and dedication is unprecedented, his success comes through hard work
and a driven focus on numbers, quality, and an uncanny way of surrounding
himself with talent. He was the first real businessman I worked for,
one that balanced the art of making money, and having that constant
quick to react attitude and most of all; the unique realization that
all of us were not born with a silver spoon in their mouth.
Who was the greatest influence for you as a chef?
My mother being in the restaurant business her whole life was a
big influence, it’s through her I took that same hospitality gene
people in our business possess. My father being a jazz musician in
Kansas City was constantly entertaining at home so we grew up putting
on an event almost weekly.
Starting in the business at 14 and being offered a job by Bradley Ogden
at 16 years of age, and working at the famed American Restaurant in
KC during it’s hay day was one of my biggest influences. It was
Bradley’s first job as an Executive chef, so his efforts were
at that time extremely driven to quality and creativity. He was given
that privilege by Hallmark Cards; who owned the American. The attention
to detail and the support of a huge company behind the restaurant made
it a world-class place and still, to this day, is on top as being one
of the best places in America. Making money was not an issue. Breaking
even of course was the goal. I can just tell you that if the food,
service or any detail wasn’t right, it was fixed very quickly,
no matter what it took. At an early age, that was my biggest influence.
It was the quality that the American drove, and the fact that they
made me a sous chef and paid for my schooling at 17 was a huge bonus
and set me in a direction that has yet to sway.
You are probably best known in Atlanta for your work at Nava
and Bluepoint. Which Buckhead Life restaurant do you feel you made
the biggest impact and why?
I am best known for my contribution to Nava in this city, it was what
I was brought here for by the Buckhead Life Group. I drove the vision
on the menu and set a stage for the group of being that food focused
and family driven environment that later elevated me to corporate chef.
Bluepointe was the second restaurant that I had an impact on. Atlanta
Fish Market, Chops, Kyma and the Buckhead Diner were the others I helped
drive my, and the company’s, focus in.
For years everybody has been wondering when Kevin Rathbun is going
to open his own place. Finally, that day is coming. How do you feel
about the timing? Especially since the local restaurant environment
has been anything but pleasant to most lately.
For years I’ve had a goal to open my own restaurant, I’ve
questioned when I would be ready over and over again. It’s finally
going to come to fruition and I am extremely excited to have had the
experience and the osmosis of great restaurateurs. I, like most, think
of grandeur but I also know that the restaurant business is a very
hard business to be in and most of all be profitable at. Everyone seems
to think it might be easy, but as one once told me, it’s not one
thing it’s a million little ones. The passion and love comes from
experience, and I have over 30 years in it. My goals are high and my
focus is sharp.
The timing of Rathbun’s is this. Restaurants and restaurateurs
open in this city and in every city every day, and I must say that
the cream rises to the top and the strong survive through great food,
service, value and attention to details. Therefore, I have as good
of a chance that anyone else may possess. With economic times as they
are, it will be challenging, but the most important lesson to learn
is to create a solid business that you never neglect and you continue
to nurture forever & ever.
What has been the biggest challenge in your career to date?
The biggest challenge in my career is ahead of me, I challenge and
set goals everyday, and by staying focused and assertive, I will do
my best to achieve them. I’ve always said this… “I want
to be on a ladder with everyone that I surround myself with to be climbing
that ladder with me, hand in hand, those who lag behind; only slow
the others down.” I’ve always been a person who will pull
them up with everyone else as long as they’re willing to get to
the top. My forever achieving challenge is finding those who want to
meet me at the top of that ladder at the same time
Cooking: Art, Craft or Science?
Cooking: Art, Craft or Science you ask, I say all of the above.
Every food operation possesses one or more of these. After being in
the business as long as I have, you realize the extensions that all
of these items pose, and they can be used in every facet of the food
business. Depending on whether you’re eating for pleasure or fuel,
you may experience one or all of these. It’s the people (again)
that drive art, craft or science.
What is the most memorable meal you have ever had?
I’ve been fortunate to have many memorable meals, although,
I can remember great dishes within great meals mostly, I truly think
my memories come from people, places and moments whom with you dine
that you always remember and those are the meals that always come to
mind. But if I were to say, my most memorable meal was at a restaurant
in Manhattan around 1990 at a place called Mondrian, the food and service
and of course being with a well-known food writer was a very big inspiration
in my career. Mondrian’s chef was the famed Tom Collichio of Grammercy
Tavern and Craft who exudes quality, passion and inspiration to many
chefs today.
Another memory was a moment when I proposed to my wife Melissa in Larkspur
California at The Lark Creek Inn where Bradley Ogden is the Owner/Chef,
and it wasn’t the food that was memorable, it was that my wife
couldn’t take her eyes of Huey Lewis and the News. But in the
end she did say yes.
What can we expect from Rathbun’s?
The expectation from Rathbun’s is long and overdue. My wife,
Melissa, and I, and my partners Kirk Parks and Cliff Bramble’s
focus is to first & foremost develop consistency through great
people and passion for the restaurant business and to offer our guests
great service, great food, value, and most of all a place that’s
like home, a place where everyone is welcome, an energy that exudes
southern hospitality and (YOU ARE ALL INVITED).
Garlic Shrimp and Okra with Basil
Yields 4 portions
For the Shrimp:
24 each 16/20 White Shrimp P&D
2 cloves Garlic (shaved thin)
1 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 each Shallot (sliced thin)
12 pieces Okra (blanched and quartered)
1 cup Vine Ripe Tomatoes (medium diced)
1/4 cup Torn Basil Leaves
1 Tbsp Lemon Juice
5 oz Whole Sweet Butter
2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Black Pepper
Procedure:
Peel and devein shrimp, chill.
In a large sauté pan sauté garlic, shallots and shrimp
in olive oil
When shrimp are about 2/3 finished add remaining ingredients and simmer
until shrimp are done.
Adjust seasoning and serve
Spruce up the dish with jalapeno’s if you like
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