Sauce is flying through the Internet airways this week between John Kessler of the AJC and Ron Eyester, chef owner of Rosebud and Angry Chef blogger for Creative Loafing. It all started Monday when Kessler posted an open letter to all chefs in Atlanta.
In his open letter to our city’s chefs, Kessler publicly criticized them for execution flaws and for serving food he claims is boring. He dished it out all wrapped up in 10-requests.
Eyester, Angry Chef blogger for Creative Loafing, quickly countered with a 7-course response. In his come back, Eyester criticized Kessler along with the AJC for publishing a lousy food section and for putting a lead critic (Kessler) on the beat whose face is well known all over town, he even threw out the idea that our local press might be equally to blame for the city’s recent culinary woes.
I believe Kessler — though arrogantly — did make some very valid points regarding the food being served by our city’s chefs. Frankly, it’s become so dull I’ve been driven to drink, literally (hence the name change), and I now spend most of my days eating at small ethnic hole-in-the-walls instead of our city’s so-called best restaurants. I understand it’s a business so I’m not recommending these exotic ingredients and/or flavors Kessler mentions in his letter need be incorporated into every dish on the menu, but fun nightly nuances here and there would go a long way — and would be greatly appreciated. I’ve been complaining about this very thing for so long now I’m blue in the face.
On the other side of the coin, Eyester made some great points as well. Why on earth would the AJC employ a lead dining critic whose face is widely known throughout the industry? I mean, it was the AJC themselves who willfully splashed his face all over the paper for the past five years. How could readers possibly believe they are getting a fair and accurate review knowing good and well that the critic has been handled with extra care? But then, there isn’t a single critic in town whose face isn’t known to most.
And yes, Ron, the AJC’s food section is struggling and the paper doesn’t hold up to other big city rags, but telling young chefs in this town who are reading your response that it’s okay to use the paper’s shortfalls as an excuse to serve boring food is totally unacceptable. Shame on you. I will say it again, please read carefully. I understand it’s a business so I’m not recommending these exotic ingredients and/or flavors Kessler mentions in his letter need be incorporated into every dish on the menu, but fun nightly nuances here and there would go a long way — and would be greatly appreciated.
A Resolution To This Food Fight
I suggest we dress the two up in nothing but g-strings, arm each with a single spatula, and let them roll around in a slippery puddle of pig fat. Winner takes all.