The owner was a man by the name of Nick Caliendo (Nicky), a local fishmonger who began his successful run in the fish business back in 1984 at the age of twenty-six.

What few people knew was that Nicky was the longtime owner of a place called Nicky’s Seafood (609 Whitehall Street, Atlanta Tel: 404.588.3474) in downtown Atlanta near Morehouse College. He had sold the restaurant many years ago.

But as fate would have it, Nicky re-purchased the business about a year ago and is up to his old tricks, only this time he’s doing it in the hood. A quality jumbo shrimp po’boy has all the makings to be a great one, but the bread is too squishy. A truly great po’boy has crunchy bread with only enough chew to hold the shrimp.

Crab dip ($2.50 for a large) is a generous portion for the price and loaded with big chunks of meat with a nice little kick on the back — so worth the drive all by itself. Seriously.

When it’s cold, you either sit to the left in a small dining area or the front where people place their orders. I sit in the front so I can watch over my car to make sure it isn’t jacked while I eat.

The menu is mix of Mexican and South American fare.

I quickly started things off with green posole since it was highly touted by several people online, and posole of any kind just so happens to be one of my favorite Mexican dishes. And I must say, this version is quite good — not bland in the least. My biggest complaint is the fact that they don’t use hominy, which lends a chewy, almost hard bite, a much-needed texture in my opinion. This was the best dish of the day.

Next arrived a dish called El Macho, which was also played up on the Internet by happy fans of the restaurant. It’s a big plate of pulled braised pork chunks tossed with beans, mangos and leafy stuff, covered with a sweet plantain cut long ways. A citrusy vinaigrette brings it all together.

Tacos are less impressive, even though you will find some interesting options such as Al Pastor among the gringo (the menu’s wording, not mine) options.

Problem is, the al pastor doesn’t pack nearly the punch of the far better versions down the road in all those hole-in-the-wall taquerias that scare away most AlphaRoswellians.

Queso fundido is decent, but I prefer a spicier chorizo and a stringier cheese that isn’t so fluffy.

All in all, it wasn’t a bad experience. All dishes are at the very least good, though not great.

Will I come running back? No.

If in the area and wanting green posole would I stop in? Probably.

“This used to be that deli you liked.” Melanie said with part of a plantain dribbling down her chin.

“Ah! Meyer’s Deli,” I responded. “That’s why I have a sudden urge for pastrami on rye.”


Intown dwellers may snub their noses at the suburban zip code, but Seed’s got serious game — so much so, I believe it should be considered a destination restaurant, worthy of a drive from anywhere in the city.

Owner/chef Doug Turbush is sourcing ingredients and cooking like there’s no tomorrow, East Cobb, best known for beautiful women — not its dining scene — has never seen a restaurant of this caliber, or anything close.

During a recent lunch outing we enjoyed a sweet bowl of braised onion soup taken to the next level by thin, casually strewn Gruyere crisps that soak up all that glorious sweetness while lending that necessary nuttiness.

The menu isn’t vast or over the top, it’s just extremely well-executed to the point I can’t help but notice. Chicken schnitzel arrives juicy — not dry — resting in a puddle of miso mustard that harmoniously bridges the gap between protein and garnish, in this case — arugula salad and fire-roasted tomatoes. Citrusy notes of lemon pull it all together.

Prices here are surprisingly inexpensive taking quality into consideration. A $10 plump shrimp po’boy comes with crispy fries. The sandwich is dripping with a lively chili mayo and butter lettuce — it’s a steal.

Melanie pointed out that I was one of only three male patrons. The large dining room didn’t have a single seat available. What can I say? I love East Cobb.

The drink program is equally impressive, rivaling any I’ve seen in the city. Even the beer list is strong, though this crowd seems more like the wine and cocktail type.

Service isn’t something I typically mention in my write-ups but our service was flawless and worthy of a mention. Our server was funny, knowledgeable and possessed that uncanny ability to be there only when needed. A real pro.

Cliff Bostock would have no problem anointing him waitron of the week.

Liberato then resurfaced at the insanely popular Antico Pizza Napoletana where he sung Italian opera and slung pies for a salivating audience who couldn’t get enough. The pies here were not his recipes, which is a good thing for Liberato, in my opinion. The crust at this Midtown pizzeria is doughy and inexcusably chewy. For a style of pizza that is supposed to be light and airy, I always left with gut bomb stomach and headed straight for my couch.

Perhaps Liberato felt the same way about the pies as I did because he didn’t last there either.

Then, as quickly as he fell off the face of the earth, he reappeared at Vingenzo’s in Woodstock of all places, for what turned out to be a very quick stint.

Poof, the elusive pizzaiolo became a vapor trail yet again.

But as Liberato has done every time he disappeared, he has resurfaced again. This time in Buckhead at a new place called Fuoco di Napoli (30 Pharr Road, Buckhead, 404-781-0707) and it appears he has a stake in it so he won’t be moving on any time soon.

Now, with nobody in his way while at the helm of a wood-burning oven he built with his own bare hands, we will finally see what Liberato (the only certified pizzaioli in Atlanta) can really do.

I visited during the restaurants first few days in business, so in fairness I won’t jump into full review mode. I will say, however, the pies I sampled were quite good. Bright and fresh flavors atop with my one and only complaint being the crust, which wasn’t bad but a little — I did say only a little — too chewy for my taste.

I’ve read other opinions across the Internet about their early experiences at Fuoco di Napoli, many seem to have a similar gripe, passing it off as an under cooked pie. I don’t think so. I believe the dough was too cold when placed into that beautiful hand built oven. A good pizza dough needs time to rest at room temperature before being shoved into the oven.

I will also say this, I prefer these pies to the many I’ve tried at Antico Pizza Napoletana, Fritti and Vingenzo’s. And, if Liberato can drop his nomadic tendencies, I believe the pies he puts out here will be the measuring stick for all pies in Atlanta.

In his message Duffy dubbed the sandwich a “one-hit wonder,” claiming the rest of the menu to be “Papa John’s quality.”

I voice a +1 to everything Duffy said. Served in good portion on an Amoroso roll, with all the proper cheesesteak seasoning and topped with mozzarella and provolone cheese, this sandwich actually gives reason to step foot in Jersey Boyz Pizza.

The pizza, however, gives good reason to run the other way.

Jersey Boyz isn’t the only topsider currently serving a worthy version of the cheesesteak sandwich. I’ve been very fond of the one at Verra-Zanno Pizzeria (11600 Medlock Bridge Road, Johns Creek, Duluth, 678.473-0209) and actually prefer it to Jersey Boyz, or any other version I’ve tried in the burbs.

Take a look at this bad boy below on fresh-baked bread made in-house daily. The hoagie roll is thin, light and airy – better than Amoroso any given day. The oils from the meat drip into the bread making for a big buttery bite. It’s topped with white American and provolone cheese, the latter gives a sneaky sharpness.

While I am on a roll, I will toss one more into the mix. Calabria Pizza & Wings (4910 Atlanta Hwy, Alpharetta, 678.867.2625) — yes, another pizza joint.

At this six-table hole-in-the-wall you’ll find some pretty good NY-style pie and a very decent cheesesteak sandwich, served on an Amoroso roll. My only gripe is that sometimes this one is slightly under seasoned, but it is the cheapest of this bunch with plenty of bang for your buck.

At least on the pizza side of things, Neapolitan style has become more prominent in our city over the past year or so, as it is a lighter, purer pie — when done correctly. And there is a little more complexity to the crust. There is also strict guidelines for ingredients employed by those who lay claim to this style, ingredients like type 00 flour and San Marzano tomatoes.

I tip my hat to brothers Daniele and Ambrogio Florio (owners) of Sapori di Napoli (314 Church Street Decatur, Tel: 404.371.0001) who truly do put these ingredients to work in their pies, and for cooking their hearts out.

Problem is, when it comes to pizza, 80% is science (cooking with your head) and only 20% heart. There is such a fine line between a disappointing bready, doughy crust and that perfect one that bears a thin, crispy outer layer which ultimately gives way to a perfect chewy center.

This is where Sapori di Napoli struggles and has on all four of my visits, which I evenly spread out since the first week they opened. During my first two visits the crust was bready with an undercooked (but not) texture.

On a third visit I asked for it well done. What I received was a very inconsistent pie. One half was bready and far too chewy while the other side was flat. Several giant air pockets stood like bubbly domes across the top of the pie.

These issues typically say the dough is too cold when the pizza is placed next to the fire. But who knows? Other variables could be at play.

I do know this, every time I make the trip to Sapori di Napoli I find myself happy in the moment, relaxing in this fun little eatery awaiting my pie. But when nibbling on a slice, I find myself adrift dreaming of better versions across town.

Since there isn’t anything I sampled that I hated on the menu, I’ll start with what I liked most. And that’s chef Jared Lee’s Alabama “lobster roll.” Not even a hot dog. For those unfamiliar with this backwoods bayou delicacy, it is actually a crawfish tail roll. At HD1, these vibrant crawfish tails are slathered in chilled shrimp head aioli, topped with crunchy cucumber strips, and stuffed into a bun. A beautiful warm, wet, chilly, soft, succulent, crunchy bite.

Melanie’s favorite was the beef pastrami dog with ox tongue and tripe hash. At least it’s hot dog. Personally, I’d like to see some kind of textural play added to this — something crunchy —and maybe some acidity to counter all that rich, mushy goodness.

Soft, mushy textures is obviously an issue, as I figured would be the case dealing with hot dogs at this level. For example, the red haute dog with brisket chili, pepper jack foam and Vidalia onions would have benefited greatly if the onions were deep-fried and crispy. The pepper jack foam didn’t do much for the dog as it arrived a melty mess that mostly ran off the sides.

I was more impressed with chef’s housemade, well-seasoned fennel sausage with slightly sweet and spicy San Marzano ketchup. The lightly grilled radicchio added a lively crunch.

Those seeking nitro-shakes, like the ones at Flip, will be disappointed. Dessert at HD1 is soft serve ice cream or a soft serve sammy – we ordered an amazing bacon chocolate chip cookie sandwich. A fun bite? Yes. But I do miss those nitro-shakes — I shamefully admit to consuming $28 worth at Flip in a single sitting.

The crowds at HD1 are, however, very much like the Flip crowds: young, hip and far too cool for me.

While this place might not dazzle you with décor and trendy hipsters, it does do a lot of things right. A big strappin’ burly beef frank is priced to sell at just $3.75 — a welcoming site considering the economy — and, the beer bratwurst is priced to move wearing the same sticker. Both sourced locally from Wienerz Factory in Marietta and both arrive wearing snappy casings and a cheery chargrill note. The latter being something I didn’t necessarily get during my two trips to HD1.

A 20oz chocolate shake is only $2.99, served in those expensive environmentally safe plastic cups.

“Are they making money?” Melanie asks.

“I don’ know.” I replied while watching my daughter kick her $2.75 skinless Vienna hot dog across the floor. “I’m just happy to feed the whole family for under $20.”

Food allergies and waist-watchers beware; fries are cooked in peanut oil and highly addictive.

The crowd during our one and only lunch visit was mostly of the blue-collar variety, with muddy boots and black oil-stained fingers. A nice change of pace.

There’s just something humble and earthly, very backyard, about Ringside that makes you pull for this place. They aren’t trying too hard, just good food served at a fair shake by nice people. There should be one of these in every neighborhood.

Oh, how I love this time of year. Wings, beer, football — Bring-it-on!

Here goes nothing.

Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q
1238 Dekalb Avenue Northeast, Atlanta
Tel: 404.577.4030
www.foxbrosbbq.com
The hormone-free wings at this popular Texas-style smokehouse are argued by many to be the best in town and honestly, they have a strong case. These meaty flappers and drums aren’t just dunked in a deep fryer, shaken in sauce and served. They are instead dry-rubbed and smoked for several hours first. The outer edge of the meat under the skin is even stained purple. The wings are flash fried to order before being shaken in sauce and then served. The result is smoky, roll-up-your-sleeves messy, meaty goodness.

Taco Stand
10595 Old Alabama Connector, Alpharetta
Tel: 404.754.4500
www.thetacostand.com/alpharetta
Being that I am a UGA grad myself, how could I possibly leave out this new Alpharetta gathering place for Bulldog fans? The meaty wings here are surprisingly free of hormones (happy to see this trend catching on) and only modestly spicy. They, too, undergo a unique preparation in that they are first steamed and then finished off quickly in the deep fryer, a process that allows the chicken to maintain its integrity and flavor. Go Dawgs!

Hottie Hawg’s Smokin’ BBQ
2061 Main Street NW, Atlanta
Tel: 404.794.5224
www.hottiehawgsbbq.com
Don’t be fooled by silly name descriptors such as “Burning Down the House” to describe the heat levels of these smoked beauties. These wings are only sparingly hot. Now, those hottie waitresses, well, that’s a different story. But I come here for the brisket and wings, or so I tell my wife. These wings are offered a variety of ways. I prefer the addictively salty dry rubbed version (no sauce) and the vinegary kick given by the Burning Down the House. Did I mention the hottie wait staff? Oh my.

Bella’s Pizzeria
3599 Atlanta Road, Smyrna
Tel: 770.437.8056
www.bellaspizzeria.com
Yes, it’s a pizza joint but I’m addicted to the wings, too. The thickest, plumpest, meatiest wings you’ll find anywhere in the country. Seriously, these suckers are huge. A single order weigh-in has been known tip the scales at a remarkable 2.2 pounds. But it’s not only the size that’s a turn-on, the tangy sauce and crispy skin are what make these wings truly sublime.

The Wing Factory
4279 Roswell Road #605, Atlanta
Tel: 404.255.4460
www.wingfactory.com
The wings at this old-fashioned wing joint are the hottest wings of the bunch, by far. I typically skip the infermo and go for the habanero, they are hot enough (believe me!) and there’s just something about habanero and chicken that makes for a magical marriage. Be sure to bring a fire extinguisher.

Yes, I did say uncured. Heywood’s is the only facility in Georgia that is USDA certified to prepare and sell nitrate-free sausages and salumi.

Some believe that synthetic nitrates and nitrites—when added in an effort to cure meats—combines with amines to create a potentially harmful substance called nitrosamines, which may be linked to cancer. Many disagree and proclaim these products to be safe, but after much research I am very weary of cured meats and tend to limit my intake.

Health risks aside, a small but growing group of artisan meat crafters feel strongly about adding synthetic nitrates and/or nitrites to meats when curing, and would rather not compromise the integrity of well-sourced organic meat. They instead add a safe natural culture that allows naturally occurring nitrates to convert to nitrites on their own. And, most importantly, they don’t use phosphates at all, mainly because they retain water and can put meat at risk. The result is a clean label natural product—the way it was meant to be, before the food world became overly industrialized.

This natural curing or fermentation process is practically unheard of here in the states, though it is being utilized at small levels in Italy and other parts of Europe and the world.

That being said, owner Patrick and his newly opened Heywood’s Provision Company is the single most important restaurant or market to open in our city in quite some time, possibly ever.

I’ve yet to try everything in the store but here’s a brief rundown of what I have tried so far:

Beef Jerky: At just six dollars for a quarter pound, this stuff is like cheap crack. The chipotle is especially spicy, but the teriyaki is a more complex sweet and spicy bite. Sometimes it’s even made from local White Oak Pastures beef.

Lebanon Bologna: All beef, fermented and smoked. The flavor is remarkably tangy and much drier texture.

Beef Cotto Salami: Well-seasoned faintly peppery flavored beef salami. The one I tried was made with White Oak Pastures beef.

Spicy Sopressata: Nicely spicy bite to this weirdly wide in diameter meat. Pleasantly not too dry to the bite like all products on the shelf at this meat haus.

Italian Sausage: This spicy Italian sausage is second to none. Quite possibly the best I’ve ever eaten.

What impresses me most about this little Marietta meatery is the quality of product. Besides Riverview Farm, you’ll find plenty of local White Oak Pastures beef on the shelf along with their newly released poultry. Will Harris’ White Oak Pastures grass-fed beef is my personal favorite, and has been for a very long time. For the first time ever, I can actually say with confidence that someone is actually doing his beef the justice it so deserves.

Run, don’t walk to this one!