Living edibles, Indian pizza and pho

By Tom Maicon at July 8, 2010 | 8:34 am | Print

For the past six years or so, I’ve played judge at Taste of Alpharetta’s culinary competition. I will say, since the event’s organizers revamped the cooking battle a couple years ago, the dishes submitted by restaurants are far more skilled and daring than ever before.

The craziest dish ever served during my tenure was in 2009 by a Japanese restaurant called Akina (5815 Windward Parkway, Alpharetta, 770.663.0630). So long as I live, I will never forget the moment four steely-eyed Japanese men wearing cold stern faces entered the culinary stage from our left and gently placed a mystery platter just out of sight.

With merely a quick crack, twist and single synchronized motion — the men proudly present their dish before us. Engulfed by thick plumes of smoky dry ice, swinging tentacles and skinny red legs flail through the foggy haze. Oh, my. Live lobster sashimi.

Three squeamish judges turned six different shades of green as two of us shared in what was certainly the edgiest dish ever offered in the event’s illustrious 20-year history.

Some believe “real” carnivores consume their prey raw and at, or very near time of kill, in an effort to gain the other animal’s electrical frequency, which is thought to die with the animal. Still think you’re a carnivore?

Those eager to dare raw lobster that still moves on the plate while you eat will be happy to know this dish can be ordered with 24 hour advance notice.

I recently enjoyed two meals at Akina, neither trip involved food that moved on my plate or winked at me. But I did find an interesting item or two on the menu.

I’m a sucker for Hamachi Kama sashimi. It’s not often you find a Japanese restaurant in Atlanta willing to part with the sashimi in addition to the collar. The sashimi side is pristine and firm, a sharp contrast from the fatty, soft, succulent collar.

Those unfamiliar with the etiquette of this dish should know that the raw collar is served for looks only. Once the sashimi is consumed, it’s returned to the kitchen to be broiled. Don’t make the same mistake as a tipsy woman I witnessed in a New York sushi bar, who put the raw collar to her mouth in an attempt to eat it. Sigh. Thankfully, an alert sushi chef intervened before she chipped a tooth.

I then drove a few miles west from Akina to a place called Hot Breads (12890 Highway 9, Suite 110, Alpharetta, 770.751.9990), an Indian bakery, to give — of all things — Indian pizza a try. Pies are prepared as individual size only and cheap, ranging from $4.50 to $5.

I took my chances with the paneer tikka pizza. I must say, if you consider a typical NY-style slice to be a 7 out of 10 on a flavor scale, this pizza would be an explosive 10.5.

Housemade dough gets a thick smear of fiery tikka sauce. It’s then topped with bite-sized cubes of marinated paneer, onions and peppers. If this one pizza is any indication, I’m a believer.

Not the best pizza I’ve ever eaten, but it could very well be the spiciest.

Many readers still write in asking my favorite place for Vietnamese pho. Nothing’s changed, I’m still a big fan of the version at Quan Ba 9 (4285 Buford Highway, Atlanta, 404.636.2999) mainly because they serve it with whole Thai chilies, not sliced jalapenos. And the ingredients always taste of better quality than the other nearby noodle houses.

The entire menu is interesting at Quan Ba 9. I’m particularly fond of the mango salad served with a real traditional sour fish sauce, not sweetened in the least for the American palate. They do also serve lau, the Vietnamese hot pots.

In all my visits, I’ve yet to encounter anything other than Vietnamese natives.

Tom Eats Akina, alpharetta, buford highway, Hot Breads, Indian Pizza, live lobster sashimi, Quan Ba 9, Taste of Alpharetta, Windward Pkwy