Yeah! Burger enters city-wide burger wars

By Tom Maicon at June 15, 2010 | 10:45 pm | Print

When I was kid my father would rant to us that a real hamburger should measure at least one inch-and-half thick, and must be topped with a mandatory — artery-plugging — half pound of bacon.


According to him, a hamburger cooked on a flat top is an imposter, he believed — and, still does to this day — that real burgers should be cooked over an open flame.


When I was a defiant, pimple-faced teenager it was one of the few things we agreed on.


But evidence that dad and I are a dying breed can be felt at our city’s newest burger joint, Shaun Doty’s highly anticipated Yeah! Burger (1168 Howell Mill Road at White Provisions, Westside). Doty’s patties are quickly scorched to oblivion on a hot flat top grill, and arrive thin enough to swipe through a credit card machine.


Yeah! Burger offers two types of beef burgers: grass-fed and bison. Both are way too lean to be cooked to medium-well, which is the only temperature Doty’s kitchen will cook. Oy.


I will spare you dear reader another grass-fed rant.


Doty does bring a unique glutton-free twist to the table by offering glutton-free fries and surprisingly delicious glutton-free buns. Below is two tragically overcooked grass-fed patties between one of those locally made glutton-free buns.

Our fries were a phallic nightmare. Short, limp and soggy. But the buttermilk-soaked onion rings were definitely worth ordering again. Thin and crispy, perfectly seasoned.

I ordered a side of mildly spicy chili which was quite good. My only complaint is too many beans.

I’ve been a big fan of Doty’s since his early days at Mumbo Jumbo, but I’m not particularly impressed with Yeah! Burger in the early going. Still plenty of time for the kitchen to change their errant ways, though.

And in case you haven’t noticed, the burger fad is way over blown. Please, make it stop!

Tom Eats Shaun Doty, westside, White Provisions, Yeah! Burger