INC. Street Food Lures In The Ladies
By Tom Maicon at March 4, 2010 | 1:15 pm | Print
I’m not one to pull the “authenticity” card, nor do I sneer at fusion cuisine. If it tastes good, who cares? I do have certain likes and dislikes though, and thick and heavy — two terms that accurately define our cuisine scene of the ’80s and ’90s — doesn’t exactly fall into my “likes” department.
While eating at INC. Street Food (984 Canton Road, Roswell, 770.998.3114) last week, I found most dishes to be too heavily sauced and entirely too busy, a trait commonly encountered during the old school — largely French influenced — cooking of the ’80s and early ’90s.
Pork tamales (see photo below) arrive smothered in thick, though mild guajillo sauce and a crema fresca squiggly, a technique that went out of style with parachute pants. Today, the more circular dots and dollops are en vogue. The light corn flavors of the skimpy portion of actual tamales were lost in the muck.
Thickly coated Argentinian style empanadas are lost in translation underneath a heaping pile of pickled vegetables, pico de gallo, and a disturbing heavy layer of herb (their description, not mine) cream, which tasted more like a garlicky ranch than anything else.
Carnitas tacos appear to be mindlessy deep-fried and coated in flour, rendering them to dry flavorless cubes of tough pork. I prefer the tender slow braised citrus-y notes of the more traditional methods.
Despite suffering from “past due” kitchen ideology, the menu is surprisingly well thought out. I found some unique dishes not easily found here in Atlanta, even at the so-called “authentic” places.
I was happy to see Albondigas (see photo below ), a classic Mexican meatball soup. But this version lacks depth and soul.
The best dish in the house by a mile was an order of calamari rellenos (see photo at top of page), squid stuffed with rich braised oxtails and squid ink rice, topped with a tangy green mole. These were judiciously topped, the squid was tender and the playful squid ink rice was fun.
Ladies, don’t take your date here, men enjoy about a 15:1 female to male ratio. This place is an estrogen fest, it’s packed with woman drinking from the inventive margarita list while nibbling on decent food that lacks modern day finesse.
Adam, 1 year ago
Your crazy! Food is a great value and delicious, try the shrimp or tuna tacos and that’s all you need to know. As far as not taking a date there if your that insecure that’s another problem all together. Good food good drinks I’d give it a try
keith b., 1 year ago
This is by far the best in Roswell, the food has a Latin/Cuban slant. Some of the best I’ve ever eaten period. You can eat here with confidence. 5 stars.
Cliff Hanger, 1 year ago
Keith, it’s not even close to the best in Roswell…though I will admit the best “Latin/Cuban” slant from a Cuban standpoint are just over the border. Mambo’s is much better Cuban, though in Alpharetta. Mojito’s is also much better, but just over the border In John’s Creek.
“Latin” San Poncho and Mr. Taco put it to shame. Inc isn’t as bad as the critic says, but it ain’t anything worth going crazy about either.
Pam, 1 year ago
Inc. in Roswell is a 1 out 5 at best. Inconsistent and the wait staff was clueless, nice but clueless.
Pam, 1 year ago
I retract my earlier statement about Inc. I actually like Inc. Good food and great staff! I was thinking of Roux, next door to Inc.
Given the choice…choose Inc. every time!
Tom Maicon, 1 year ago
I will agree with Pam that Roux is awful. In two visits I’ve suffered through gluey gumbos and etouffees,
After three visits to Inc. I’m not impressed, but the experience is much better than at Roux.