Co’m Brings Pho to Dunwoody

By Tom Maicon at March 19, 2010 | 3:27 pm | Print

I ate at Co’m Buford Highway the first day it opened, I’ve been a big fan ever since. My only complaint all along is that the menu, though delicious, plays it way too safe.

Duc and Henry Tran (owners) then brought their Vietnamese grill concept to the belly of Dunwoody Village. The second location, named Co’m Dunwoody (5486 Chamblee-Dunwoody Rd., Dunwoody 770.512.7410), employed nearly the same menu as the original but with the addition of a few pricier, more refined items and broad wine selection.

Dunwoodians instantly became intoxicated by the kitchen’s perfectly perfumed, chargrilled meats and rich kobe beef stew.

Today, this restaurant — Dunwoody location only — is owned by Nadj Mestah, a happy go lucky Frenchman who married into a good Vietnamese family. Mestah wisely took note of the cries from the traditionalists, like me, and put his mother-in-law to work cooking up real homestyle Vietnamese fare for daily specials.

“The specials have become so popular we’re going to add most of them to the regular menu,” explains Mestah during a recent phone conversation.

Among the specials is pho, the humble Vietnamese soup eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Vietnam. With two attempts under my belt, I will say that Co’m serves a worthy version whose redolent broth is packed with a heaping portion of rice noodles, tender beef and house made meatballs, and served with one of the restaurant’s popular spring rolls. Priced at $11.25, it’s a far cry from the meagerly priced versions along Buford Highway, but quality will ultimately cost you — and besides, it does come with a spring roll. The prerequisite accompaniments include Thai basil, cilantro, jalapeno slices, bean sprouts and lime wedge.

We also tried a warm claypot of caramelized catfish, a very traditional dish I’m told will make the regular menu, as it should. It’s sweet without being cloying. Balanced, though not bland. Arrives warm, not scolding hot.

Is Dunwoody ready for real Vietnamese fare? Mestah believes so.

“We have more Asians eating here since we added the specials,” he claims. “And the Americans seem to like it, too.”

I know I’m happy to see Co’m Dunwoody break away and add a little variety to the safe menu. I wonder — okay, I hope — Co’m Buford Highway will follow suit.

Tom Eats catfish claypot, Co'm, Co'm Buford Highway, Co'm Dunwoody, Duc Tran, Dunwoody, Henry Tran, Nadj Mestah, pho