Back To Roy’s For Cheesesteaks

Most restaurants struggle with consistency when they first open. Some find their footing with time, others don’t.

Roy’s Cheesesteaks (2900 Highlands Pkwy SE Smyrna, 404.799.7939) is one of those that tripped and stumbled out of the gate. Credit for the find goes to former Atlanta Cuisine message board poster, MoT.

Even though all wasn’t hunky dory in the early going, Roy’s crew appears to be hitting on all cylinders these days. Back when it opened, a first visit yielded near cheesesteak perfection in effortless fashion. The meat generously portioned, well seasoned, and served on the prerequisite squishy Amoroso rolls.

But subsequent visits were a little off mark in one way or another. One day, too skimpy on the meat. Under seasoned the next day. Both skimpy and under seasoned the day after that. I struggled to know the real Roy’s.

Some restaurants, for one reason or another, need a couple months before they hit stride. Roy’s is obviously one of those. I’m happy to report that my last half dozen or so visits have been consistently delicious. The meat nicely portioned, finely chopped, perfectly seasoned. The bread, still that traditional Amoroso roll all Philadelphians come to expect from anything wearing the name cheesesteak.

Roy’s also offers all the appropriate cheese options. This is where the cheesesteak debate really gets nasty like a Philadelphia back alley street fight. Me, I’m in the provolone corner — but for all you Cheez Whiz fanatics sitting on the edge of your seats, yes, it’s an option here.

I personally find Cheez Whiz to be a disturbing gluey prefab-textured substance that should never be mistaken for food. To each his own, I guess.

I tip my hat to Roy’s for bringing Atlantans a real contender of a cheesesteak. And I’m really digging his newfound consistency.

If you visited Roy’s in the past and vowed to never return — I recommend you eat those words, literally. These cheesesteaks are worth a trip from anywhere in the city.