Dinner At Miller Union Sparks Revist To JCT Kitchen
By Tom Maicon at January 18, 2010 | 11:50 am | Print
Westside has become one of the hotter dining areas in town, so it’s no surprise Miller Union (999 Brady Avenue, Westside Tel: 678.733.8550)—big buzz and all—decided to open in a funky, newly built westside strip center.
Décor is prefab farmstead, but hip and confident. The dimly lit dining room is sectioned off into several laid back cozy rooms with an emphasis on quiet.
The fare is straightforward, while the concept is farm-to-table—go figure—that reads subtly southern. I’ll call it home-style rustic fare with a hint of southern, a nod to chef Steven Satterfield’s years cooking southern cuisine under Scott Peacock at Watershed.
His limited menu won’t “WOW” you with gastro-imagination and sophisticated plate presentations. The most daring offering I’ve encountered during my two visits is a decadently delicious “farm egg” baked in celery cream appetizer, served with griddled country bread for sopping.
Rabbit, might sound risky to some, is served atop a giant portion of grits with wild mushrooms and brown home-style gravy. It’s not the least bit gamey. It’s also a perfect example of how a restaurant dish doesn’t need to be visually appealing to taste good.
A slow braised fork tender pork shoulder with sautéed greens is soul-soothing comfort food, something your mother would make. And arranged on the plate in similar fashion.
Satterfield’s rustic unpretentious style is refreshing in a way. Who would of thought good old-fashioned home-style cooking with plate presentation equal to that of your grandmother’s would make such a buzz?
I guess people during these worrisome times need to be taken back to homey comfort flavors of a safer time and place.
Since most people I know describe Miller Union as a quiet JCT Kitchen (1198 Howell Mill Rd, Westside Tel: 404.355.2252) I decided to revisit JCT for lunch and a little comparison.
And honestly, I find far more differences between the two than I see similarities. The menu at JCT Kitchen is distinctly southern, and not nearly as limited. Fry’s is more of a modern style of cooking and plate presentation is more skillfully carried out.
On to our meal, Ford’s fried chicken is regarded by many as the best in town, and though I’ve had no luck with it on previous visits I ordered it anyway. I will say this was my best attempt yet. Despite the crust not being quite crispy and flavorful enough for my taste, the chicken was juicy and tender, surprisingly light and wholesome. It’s served with a side of warm creamy macaroni & cheese. I’d probably order it again.
We also ordered pork belly BLT—crispy blocks of pork belly topped with fried green tomatoes and arugula served on a bun with house-made mayo. I got my side order of fries kicked up a notch to truffle fries. This dish turned out to be the more interesting of the two—my only complaint being that the pork belly was so crispy it wouldn’t break at first bite.
Yes, the dining room’s decibel level is still that of a jet taking off. But I think this—my umpteenth visit—I’ve found what others like so much about chef Ford Fry’s cooking.
And after just two visits to nearby Miller Union, I like what’s happening in the kitchen there, but I’d like to see chef Steven open up his imagination and menu. And maybe display a little more finesse with presentation.
Verdict on both: Westside is a better dining area because of them.
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