D.B.A Barbecue: Smokeless in Va-Hi
By Tom Maicon at June 23, 2009 | 4:34 pm | Print
We currently have three ‘que joints in the metro area I’d consider top-tier: Fox Bros. BBQ located in Inman Park, BBQ1 East Cobb, and Swallow at The Hollow in Roswell. The one thing all these places have in common is the ability to apply a deep smoky flavor to the meats.
It’s that rich mouthwatering smoky flavor — and smell — that’s missing at D.B.A. Barbecue (1190 N. Highland Ave. Ste B, Virginia-Highland, 404.249.5000), which recently opened its doors in the cool space that Vine occupied for many years.
D.B.A Barbecue bills itself as a contemporary southern dining concept. But let’s be honest, when you include the word barbecue in your name, that’s the part of the menu that people (I’m no exception) will mostly base their judgments.
And judging by the barbecue I’ve eaten thus far at this Va-Hi barbecue joint, I’m not overly thrilled. Pulled pork is one dimensional in texture, which is too mushy, as if steamed — and not a single shred of crispy bark to be found.
Even a rack of St. Louis-style spare ribs lacks personality. Same complaint here — too soft, too mushy, and absolutely no contrasting textures or flavors to make me feel as if I’m really getting my barbecue on.
Sauce options here are all of two. Sweet or spicy, neither of which contain a single fleck of spice or seasoning, or anything that would add some complexity. Neither works well by itself. The sweet is cloying. The spicy isn’t really spicy at all. But mix the two together and you’ll end up with a nearly edible concoction. I won’t pin a style to it for fear of blasphemy.
You’ll make out a better with sides, though not much. The one sole highlight we encountered was a side of salty Texas creamed corn, which is heavily laced with parmesan cheese. I could’ve made a meal of it.
D.B.A Barbecue has only been open less than a month so I won’t pass final verdict. I’ll play forever optimist by returning every so often in hopes the kitchen will get its act and flavor together. I’m hoping for some smoke.
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