Disconnect at New Orleans Connection
By Tom Maicon at April 23, 2009 | 4:23 pm | Print
Ever since Beyond the Bayou in Chamblee closed its doors, our city has experienced a major void for Cajun grub on the quick and cheap. Of course there’s always Gumbeaux’s, but let’s be honest, who in the real world considers Douglasville the Atlanta metro? And that drive could be considered anything but on the quick.
A little closer to home, New Orleans Connection (1669 Spring Rd. Suite B, Smyrna, Tel: 770.874.3404) has received raving reviews from the good people on our AC discussion board. Now well into my middle age years, I’ve personally come to realize that bayou fare is as subjective as barbecue and pizza — and I’ve got the scars to prove it.
That being said, I’ll state right here and now that I’ve cheerfully stood in a line that wrapped clear around the corner, during a torrential downpour, for a creamy fried oyster po’boy at Mother’s …several times. I’ve spilled more powdered sugar at Café Du Monde than most others have eaten in their lifetimes. And I found my way to restaurants — at least I think they were restaurants — in bayou’s deepest, snake infested swampy backcountry, whose access was by boat only, where I encountered the most ethereal, earthy gumbo ever created by man.
Does this make me the “end all” voice of Cajun/Creole cuisine? Certainly not. Just as it doesn’t mean squat to me that you are from New Orleans, so don’t even think about it.
Now that I’ve cleared the air, let’s get to the food at New Orleans Cafe with which I have an early mixed relationship. During our first visit, the oyster po’boy was a statue of beauty — overstuffed and busting at the seams, the oysters perfectly fried and creamy, served on soft, chewy bread like you’d find only in New Orleans.
But after many years in the business I’ve learned that you can’t assume a restaurant’s greatness, or otherwise, from just one visit. Two days later a revisit yielded rock hard, overcooked oysters that lacked that certain creamy quality which really separates this po’boy from most others around town.
How about that gumbo and jambalaya stuff? Well, the gumbo could prosper from a little tweaking, in my opinion. Though the andouille and shrimp were ample, I prefer a roux that is earthy and a little less fishy. A cup of Jambalaya arrived a dry, funky imbalance of herbs and spices — in need of much more help.
Alas, a restaurant that serves beignets, which begs the question: Why on earth don’t we have more beignets in this town? Though after three attempts I’ve yet to understand the beignets served here. They are strangely thick, dense and doughy like the texture of a doughnut. I prefer my beignets to be warm, airy square pillows of sugary goodness.
In the way of authenticity, yes, it’s a term I despise when describing food — but I feel it’s an appropriate term to describe the ambience in this case. The atmosphere at New Orleans Connection is about as authentic as you’ll find. There’s just something about the feel of the place that is so New Orleans. Perhaps it’s the lack of air conditioning, or maybe it’s the sweaty, oily air, or the way the blues music bounces off the ceiling. Whatever it is, it’s definitely authentic.
Would I go back? Sure, I’ll likely return for a po’boy and to see if the gumbo improves.
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