The Kilt Lifter
By Jessica Moss at March 9, 2009 | 5:07 pm | Print
A freshly tapped Jack Daniels barrel full of Kilt Lifter Scotch Ale is attached to a newly drilled, fishnet and stiletto wearing mannequins’ leg. The leg also wears a kilt, and upon lifting said kilt, a tap is revealed dispensing brewer Kevin McNerney’s incarnation of 5 Seasons’ famous Scotch Ale. Where else could this be but at 5 Seasons Brewing in the Prado?
Chef Philip Rainwater designed a five-course menu paired with the current brews pouring at 5 Seasons for February 25th’s Bourbon Barrel Aged Scotch Ale Dinner. Combining classic elements of Scottish cuisine with the restaurants native Asian
flair, Rainwater’s ambitious selections captured freshness and flavor perfectly. At a restaurant known by foodies for inventive and delicious specials, the menu for the dinner delivered to the highest expectations.
Upon arrival guests were greeted by Dennis Lange, who is the definition of an obliging host, and guided to the soon to be infamous kilt lifter leg. As the reception continued, and the leg’s garter began to fill up with one dollar bills, people slowly started to settle into seats and enjoyed a bit of entertainment from Lange and McNerney. The combination of these two friendly, boisterous personalities can make any speech an enjoyable experience. As the first course was laid out, Lange went to work pouring beers and toasting with traditional Scottish toasts as the guests went to work enjoying their libations. Fresh palates were greeted with what might be one of the best soups I have had in my life, a pureed butternut squash with granny smith apples and topped with candied bacon and popcorn that had been tossed with white truffle oil. The beer paired with this was the Chug Monkey, 5 Seasons Cream Ale with mild hop bitterness that cut through the cream of the soup perfectly.
Following this, in true 5 Seasons style, Kobe Beef Tartare (yes, that is raw Kobe beef) was served, blending the beef with Asian pear, cucumber, radish, pine nuts, and the famous Den Chan soy sauce and topped with wasabi caviar. Seven Sisters, a popular German amber lager originally brewed by Glen Sprouse, made its return to be paired with the tartare. For a third course, and perhaps a personal favorite, perfectly flavored skatewing was served with smoky purple potatoes and earth wild mushrooms on a bed of carrot-orange puree. McNerney’s inaugural beer, the Hopgasm IPA played off of the flavors in the dish without detracting from the beautiful subtlety of the skatewing.
Scottish flavors prevailed in the fourth course with local Riverview farms delicious organic pork served with braised greens, a cauliflower and vanilla pudding, and pork encrusted Scotch Egg. This course alone could have carried the dinner, especially paired with the star beer, the Bourbon Barrel Aged Kilt Lifter. The smokiness from the oak ageing showcased the flavors in both the pork and the Scotch Egg.
Dessert Haggis might not sound appealing, but the deconstructed ‘haggis’ concept translated to a puff pastry stuffed with bread pudding ice cream and topped with bourbon butter. Impossible to put down, the combination of the warm outside and the freezing ice cream created an amazing textural finish. The bourbon butter made the dish easily pairable with the Bourbon Barrel Aged Kilt lifter and the Raspberry TruffAle.
Overall, this amazing showcase of beer and food highlighted the talents of Kevin McNerney, Philip Rainwater, and the entire kitchen staff. The love of food and beer could defiantly be seen on the faces of everyone involved and everyone who got to enjoy in their efforts.
Following the dinner, Kevin McNerney guided the interested on a tour of the brewery, from the brewhouse to the fermentation room which provided great insight into McNerney’s process. He also discussed making the Bourbon Barrel Aged Kilt Lifter. A used, fully intact Jack Daniels barrel was painstakingly filled with Kilt Lifter Scotch Ale and sealed. This was allowed to sit for two and a half months, relatively undisturbed, to let nature take its course. Brewing is quite often an experimental process, a subtle art form requiring patience. Kevin himself had resisted the temptation to try the beer but once, knowing that the end result would inevitably be different. What poured from the leg tap was a slightly bourbony-sweet nector with hints of vanilla and smoke, but maintained the medium bodied drinkability of the original brew. The beer was tapped directly from the Jack Daniels barrel, something I personally have never seen done before, but resulting in an amazing experience. The kilt lifter leg tap is destined to go down in history.
The dinner itself was an amazing experience with food and brew of the highest caliber. A fun, laid back atmosphere, paired with good people and good fare, made this one of the best beer dinners I have had the pleasure to attend, and I look forward to more collaborations between 5 Seasons and their amazing brewers and chefs.
Drink well! Cheers!
Jessica Moss
Beertender at Muss & Turner’s
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